Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey Everyone

I have an issue that no one seems to be able to help me out with, my R33 S1 GTST started blowing white smoke with the smell of burnt oil on idle every now and then, never under boost. I then bought a second hand stocko turbo supposedly done 150K and now it is worse than before, still no smoke while driving or under boost, but if idle at any revs under 1000 after about 20 seconds it will start blowing thick white smoke. If i then start to rev it the smoke pissses out sends a white plume behind me, but then clears after 10seconds after reving it above 1000.

Now up here in Brisbane no one seems to know what is causing this, all I get told is "...Jeez never heard of that one, bring it in and we will pull it all apart and see what we can find."

I am wondering if anyone else has had this problem and if so what was it?

Is it the turbo and is it because its a second hand one I put in? been told its strange how 2 turbos have done the same thing so it must not be that.

I personally have no clue, I just want to try to avoid paying $1000 just to get it diagnosed.

If anyone can shed some light on this I would greatly appreciate it.

Cheers Guys :thumbsup:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377443-white-smoke-on-idle/
Share on other sites

Gday Mico

No it blows when its cold or hot, it can do it when i start it in the morning or after 3 hrs of driving, not really built motor, mostly stock sorry mate wasnt sure what you meant by built motor, not sure on what oil is in it as i havent done a service on it yet, was waiting to fix this issue before I did an oil change.

Cheers

Inlet manifold gasket? I think there is a water gallery above cylinder 2 in the inlet manifold. I'm taking a stab here, but sounds very similar to a problem my mate had 12 months ago. Has it got a miss fire at all?

Cheers Guys

Jez I will try the flush and oil change with the 20w50 that Mico suggested, if that fails then I will look at the inlet manifold gasket that you have suggested Jock, also to answer your question Jock no miss fire at all besides doing it once after i had not started it for a few weeks, but then the miss fire cleared after a few revs.

I will try all of this then see how I go, will let you all know.

:thumbsup:

Probably isn't the inlet manifold gasket then, Todd's car was misfiring as well because cylinder 2 was copping some water. which means your water level would be going down a little if this was the case as well, now that I think about it....:whistling:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...