Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

my partner and i are new to stagea ownership its great.. i have recently fitted an intercooler kit and pod filter :rolleyes: and noticed tonite when driving home when i put my foot down and car came on full boost it started splutring and had a hiccup.. will having the new intercooler and pod filter cause the air-fuel ratio to be out.. smells a little rich.. have checked clamps on hoses are fine and tight.. car idles and drives fine only when u put your foot down to come on full boost gets a bit of a hiccup but still holds boost on the guage.. any info would be great guys as i want to get the problem fixed as my wife drives the car and dont like having something wrong with a good car..

cheers chris

Edited by stag777
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377913-stagea-intercooler/
Share on other sites

Could the car be hitting the boost Rich/Retard due to the lack of restriction; thus higher boost?

Not a C34 expert by any means; just throwing it out there?

Maybe slip the OEM airbox back on to eliminate one thing? Not a fan of Pod filters anyway.

Edited by Daleo

if you run too high boost, it will hit boost limiter and cuts out the entire engine for a split second, my stagea did that when i bypassed the solenoid, and connected both hoses without the solenoid. it hit 14.8psi and the boost cut kicked in.

check your boost gauge (if it has a stock one) if it reaches the +7 mark, its hitting high boost, it should on stock stay half way to 3/4 way towards the +7.

cant see how it would over boost though from just a pod and intercooler.

Put a new set of copper plugs in your car NGK BCPR6ES gapped down to 0.8mm. While you have your coils out inspect them carefully for signs of shorting and anyway spray them with some insulating stuff.

All RBs run rich from stock. Look at getting a Nistune chip to make your car fully tuneable and it will go better (more power, more smooothly) all round and will eliminate the Rich and Retard if that is what you are experiencing.

(and yes, get rid of your pod and get a high flow filter for your stock airbox!)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...