Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

I am after some sort of enclosure for a pos setup or standard box.

Car is losing boost when the engine gets up to operating temp, and thinking that this will solve the problem, and make it leagal :P

I have checked around, and looking at eBay finding the right box for $400, but it seems abit much for some plastic.

If anyone can help point me in the right direction will be much appreciated.

Suggest split in one of the hoses that opens up in the warmth.

Wont be the heat of the engine warming the air going into your Pod - not from the symptoms you mention.

You can get a sheild which is cheaper rather than a CAB .

Ill have a look at the hoses when i have some light and report back.

Its an odd problem, the boost restrictor has been taken out and it boosts to just below 1bar then the the engine warms up and ill get half as much boost. I cant think of what it is doing it, and its the only thing i can think of.

Im open to any suggestions on how to fix it lol.

The other reason i would like an air box is that im going to get it roadworthied, and regoed in Vic when i go home for the holidays. But a shield does sound good, and will be open to any more info on that.

Your not using a T-piece to adjust boost are you ?

If your doing your RWC and Rego in Vic then your right persue the Stock box.

Mexicans are different to the ACT where it just needs to be securely braced.

Personally if your chasing down a boost leak I'd go new tubing, and check your intercooler piping is tight around the hose clamps.

It doesnt have a manual boost controller, the only thing that is changed is the lines, which were upgraded by the previous owner.

Im seriously considering getting it done here, but being in defence, its a pain in the ass when your constanly moving around. Im back in Vic next April then moving again next December. I can prove my address because i live on base, i had to get a statdeck when i bought my run around. If that will hold up i will do it here. Because of the easier rwc rules here.

The GTR is very clean and the boost problem is the only issue ive had. And am very fond of the social side of it too with this site.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...