Never Ending R33 Gtst Problem

[ARTZ]

that doesnt make sense "guy at the battery shop said it didnt have enough cold cranking amps"

if there arent enough amps its dead obvious, the lights go dim, you can hear the starter motor struggle and it basically tries to start as if something is strangling it's neck

yes sorry the lights would go dim and the starter would struggle..

But, after a full night of charging they wouldnt..

Then it would still have trouble starting, but it would start..so i drove it down to the shop, went to start it an hour later and it would crank but wouldnt go..battery would also drain if left for a week or 2 unnattended...all my elctrics are stock bar a turbo timer and a headunit

Anyway now it starts first time, but not as smooth as it should be, idle hunts a little (very little) too..Its been sitting around for 4 months so i dont know may just be a little rusty cause it only happens when its cold..

As i said i think there is another issue...Im going to pull the starter out and grease it up on the weekend cause its driving me nuts and I will change my plugs and get back to you on that...

[Crans]

Nistune is not reporting any problems with any sensors. No error codes.

Car has always had a voltage, lean out, missfire problem. So i have been slowly replacing everything trying to sort all the issues out.A new Alternotor installed recently seams to have stabalised the voltage issue. Plugging up the plenum connection to the PCV valve seams.

Other things done to the car are:

Hypergear ATR43G3 turbo.

3" turbo back exhaust

FMIC

RB20 ECU running nistune with a MSD window switch to take care of VCT

740cc Injectors

300LPH fuel pump with direct voltage from the battery

AVCR Boost controller

Techedge wideband that also simulates narrowband for the ecu

Z32 AFM

Seams as i just sorted out the final problems on my car this issue rears its disformed face.

I am really starting to think the imobaliser is the problem.

When the car was running last night the indicators flicked together exactly how they do the unlocking the car.

And today i noticed the fuel pump wouldnt prime.

[Cowboy1600]

Sounds very similar to my Stag.

Changed the plugs and BAMMO, back to life.

That said, I don't think I've solved the underlying issue which caused the plugs to foul so badly, but it's running fine at the moment.

Change the plugs. I reckon that'll get you going and you can then concentrate on the cause of the fouling plugs.

[Rolls]

Can you confirm you have spark and fuel? Eg pull a sparkplug out and see that it is sparking, also unplug an injector and confirm it is getting voltage/current.

[Crans]

So I took my plugs out and you guys were right black as anything so i changed them and the car started.

Resized injectors(Since plugging up air leak) setup z32 again

and

Back to the same old fu*ken low voltage and missing at idle/light cruise problems

On boost its fine(Didn't actually drive it this time not wanting to rick needing another tow)

[Rolls]

If you have low voltage then it is almost certainly the alternator.

[Crans]

Brand new alternator 85amps and its nice and shiny

[Rolls]

Brand new alternator 85amps and its nice and shiny

So explain what the 'voltage' problem is?

[Crans]

At idle when warm voltage drops below 13v. Can swing around alot hitting 14.2 sometimes. Car starts running very rough when it goes below 13.5

[Rolls]

At idle when warm voltage drops below 13v. Can swing around alot hitting 14.2 sometimes. Car starts running very rough when it goes below 13.5

I am 99% sure that it isn't the voltage making the car run rough as it is the car running rough making the voltage drop.

When the car is running fine put the hand brake on and slowly let the clutch out until the revs drop to say 400-500rpm, have a look at your multimeter when you are doing this and I bet your volts have dropped.

Anywhere from 13-14 volts is normal, the car should operate fine all the way down to 11 volts thanks to the fancy regulators in the ECU etc.

Edited September 28, 2011 by Rolls

[ARTZ]

So I took my plugs out and you guys were right black as anything so i changed them and the car started.

Resized injectors(Since plugging up air leak) setup z32 again

and

Back to the same old fu*ken low voltage and missing at idle/light cruise problems

On boost its fine(Didn't actually drive it this time not wanting to rick needing another tow)

lol..easy when you know how...as Paul said always check the simple thing first before you go messing with everything..

Did you reset your timing yet?

[Crans]

Aligned it up with the mark on the cas so at most 1 or 2 degrees out which shouldn't really matter will get a timing light on it before driving