Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys, recently bought a motor off here and just seeing if anyone has any input on this as its doing my head in ! pretty much just a standard motor rb25/30 wise with twin throttle bodies. it cranked over (when at mechanics) and he bled the coolant and let it run for 30 minutes id say, then now it wont start. it kicks over but the thing wont fire, he said he tested it and hes getting no injector pulse, now ive checked power from the green wire going to injector loom (power) checked to the coil pack loom (power) even under the glovebox that thick pink wire (power) so i have no clue what to do next, im willing to play around with it but in about 2 weeks ill have to get it to an auto elec but i want to save as much cash as i can if i can. cheers guys the link is here.

Pull out the Crank angle sensor, leave it plugged in, turn the power on but don't crank it over.. spin the CAS and listen for the injectors ticking. if you can hear them then its not that if not try to test another CAS in the same way..

Edited by rsx84
  • 2 weeks later...

ok so electrically everything is working, the cam timing was way off as ill show you in the picture, around 20 teeth too much. re-set it today and something still seems wrong, not only it wont start im thinking the cams may have been set wrong too because ive put everything back stuck it in 4th pushed it foreward and it doesnt run freeely, you can feel its grabbing hitting metal on metal on one or two cylinders, i plan on doing a compression test tomrorow to tripple check but i think the motors gone because of how far out it was, going to get it inspected this week hopefully...

post-85514-0-96389600-1319458607_thumb.jpg

post-85514-0-50375600-1319458746_thumb.jpg

post-85514-0-08840300-1319458784_thumb.jpg

post-85514-0-77332600-1319458823_thumb.jpg

Uh oh, would have bent valves,

From now on before u try and start the motor ALWAYS turn the engine over by hand(using a 27mm socket on a ratchet) that way if it hits the valves and pistons u will feel it and shouldnt do damage. Then u can fix cam timing and try again

unless you can hand crank it freely all the way around you are wasting your time with a compression test. the bolt holding the idler bearing in my 25 snapped it idle losing all power, engine turning over fine there and then again but once it cooled down the exhaust valves in #2 dropped onto the cylinder head. if it won't turn all the way around when hand cranking as per above, take of the exhaust or inlet manifold and feel around in the head you'll soon find the problem... who did the timing?? ie: was it like that when you bought it?

Also the pic really don't help to judge if it was out, line the dot on the inlet cam with the white line on the backing plate on the left on the pic (not the ones at the top) the dot on the exhaust cam should then line up with the other white mark on the backing plate (again not those marks on top) then check your harmonic balancer also shows TDC.. all dots and lines should meet..

Edited by rsx84

Ok the person that rebuilt the top end has marked it wrong and my local mechanic pretty much just swapped the rb30 with the 25/30... he put the markings back to how the engine builder had marked it which now i know is wrong, i did set it all back to factory, put the car in 4th and pushed it probably 3 or 4 full rotations, its still hitting, same as before except now when you try start it and you have your foot to the floor it backfires and you can hear the petrol igniting through the plenum. ive already organised a local skyline specialists to take a look at it and fix anything wrong with it, hopefully only a handfull of valves but will have to wait and see.

when you say hitting, do you mean its hitting but still fully cranking around or is it stopping when your cranking it?? stopping = bad, hitting = still bad i'm afraid. both really means the head comes off the block, replace a few valves and shes sweet.. just got all the parts in to start my full re-build so i know what a pain it is..

Edited by rsx84

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...