Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

im sure this topic has been hit upon before but i have not found one that specifically covers my problem..

so first off my car r32 gtst

mods.

25 turbo

split fire coilpacks

cooler

exhaust

nistune

alloy radiator

thermo fan

catch can

problem #1..

my car has been pushing water bubbles into the radiator overflow bottle after i turn it off after a normal drive. and if i go for a hard drive and push the motor a bit say straight after pushing it i pull into a car park leaving it idling the temp on the stock gauge will go up into the h. so i turn the car off (normally not good idea i know) and then restart it a couple mins later. when i do gauge reads normal (halfway) my theory is theres an air lock and when the gauge is reading hot its just cause theres no coolant in the pipe that has the sensors in it..? the car runs fine while all this is happening btw!

problem #2..

in the mornings when i go to start my car it will run on 4 cylinders for maybe a min then pickup one then a few seconds later pickup the last and run normal. (this problem has only just started maybe a month ago)

now for all you that will ask no normal signs of a BHG water doesnt have oil nor does it have bubles while engine running oil is black with no signs of water. havent had a chance to do a compression test as my mate has my tester atm

so just to clarify car drives fine engine runs great outside of these problems even on a warm day giving it a bit it still wont get past halfway on the gauge..

and please no smart throw it away get a 25 etc comments i like this motor and just want to get it running sweet!

but im stumpt hopefully someone can help me out here

thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380326-rb20-cold-start-problem-overheating/
Share on other sites

Why not open your bleeder valve while the engine is cold and running and let the air bleed out? Physics has it the air will rise to the highest point, which I think is the bleeder. There is also another technique which involves cutting the bottom off a coke bottle and filling it with coolant and placing it into the radiator and sealing it and leaving the bleeder open. Gravity will help pull the water in and the air should bubble out.

Do this while running your heater because if there is air in the heater core and you don't have it all on it won't come out.

Heater on max, open bleeder and let engine warm til water starts pissing out. You can tell when you have air coming out and then water pissing out. Be f**king careful. IF there is alot of air in there and it gets into the head you can warp the thing(worst case). Ive also heard, in cars in general, when you overheat it can often cause the headgasket to fail. Maybe you had air in there and now its heated its fried your gasket hence your failed wet starts in the morning. Compression test up in this bitch. If you get two low readings between two neighbouring cylinders, more than likely a blown gasket.

Edited by SargeRX8

update..

ok so took out the plugs this morning. all the plugs looked a coppery brown color all consistent with eachother. looking into the bores cylinders 1 and 2 had a light layer of oil on them where as all the others were a dry black.. i noticed the car has been using a bit of oil as of late. i have a dual catch can setup and have noticed that enough oil have been getting past my first catch can and accumulating in my second can as of late when going for a hard drive! i'v heard that rb20's crack ring lands? just an idea as its only between cylinders 1 and 2 only...

Edited by freestyleMX

What SargeRX8 said RE; the bleeding, plus the radiator / part of the cooling system is probably blocked with gunk.....Perhaps time to get the radiator flow tested...

i did what he said in regard to bleeding it yesterday but still no difference..

I'm no mechanic but what about thermostat or water pump My mate had these symptoms on a wrx and water pump was the issue I could be totally wrong but worth a shot

brand new nissan water pump maybe 3 months ago and tested the thermostat in boiling water and is working

no and no new nismo cap have been loosing water its been spitting out the overflow

That is probably because of the overheating due to loss of too much water. If it's not on the ground and comp is not too bad, time for a leak down test.... Although I have never done one myself. There are others on here who could point you in the right direction.

Do a CO2 test on the radiator, if it gets a high reading it will confirm its a BHG.

CO2 tester measures CO2 component in the coolant, it will tell you if you are getting exhaust gas into the coolant.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...