Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My 1992 R32 GTS-T had an AVO turboworld boost gauge installed in the drivers side vent (to the lower right of the steering wheel) when I bought it.

It has always been a bit useless as it doesn't light up during night driving.

Recently I realised it is much more accurate than the in dash boost gauge and decided I needed to get the backlight wired up (assuming it works) in anticipation of hooking up a turbotech boost controller.

After pulling off the lower drivers side dash panel and pulling the gauge out of the vent a bit I found a red wire and a black wire coming from each side of the gauge housing, the two red wires have been spliced together with another wire attached running to the headlight switch, the two black wires are also spliced together.

After taking off the dash surround with all the switches I could not find any point where the gauge may have been hooked up in the past and the wire connected to the two reds went no where.

Wondering what the easiest way to wire up the backlight to get it to turn on with the headlights, preferentially parkers but otherwise low beam/high beam.

Also has anyone heard of the brand AVO Turboworld before? Is it supposed to be decent?

The boost gauge is mechanical and is joined with a t piece to the stock gauge line.

Edited by Luke HCR32
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380566-wiring-aftermarket-boost-gauge/
Share on other sites

Will that require me pulling out the head unit or the centre console surround? I have an aftermarket pioneer head unit.

I did notice one of the wires to my fog light switch had a bit of a nick in it (red and green one at top left of plug) could this have been the original source?

You dont need to put a additional fuse in. If youre going to short something and draw so much current, the original fuse for the headlight switch will blow. Sooooo.... theres already a fuse in the circuit. Just splice use the headunit wires.

You can even use the cigarette lighter wires! Shit you could even use youre odometer dash lights as youre source.

Black red. Easy peasy.

Edited by eat_me

make sure whatever you wire it to, it only lights up when the car is on or ACC is on.

some plp make the the mistake and wire it up so its on constantly (common issue with CD players) and they wonder why their batteries keep dying lol

Cheers guys, ended up hooking it up to that frayed fog light switch wire and fixing the wire at the same time, comes on when I turn the headlights to parker or on. Grounded it to the stud above the bonnet release.

post-82729-0-24601100-1319020506_thumb.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah well per the video it took 15s for the stock unit to start up....even if I give it a few seconds discount for starting that is at least 12 sec before you get a reverse camera if you are trying to leave a park.  The android unit is way faster, but 2016 for the stock unit is a long time ago in consumer electronics
    • Yea that’s why I said ima test them with multimeter and see the reads.
    • Only at idle. Isn’t a problem when rev it seems.
    • @Haggerty This seems silly to ask, but are you confident in your ability to tune the Haltech?  
    • Next on the to-do list was an oil and filter change. Nothing exciting to add here except the oil filter is in a really stupid place (facing the engine mount/subframe/steering rack). GReddy do a relocation kit which puts it towards the gearbox, I would have preferred towards the front but there's obviously a lot more stuff there. Something I'll have to look at for the next service perhaps. First time using Valvoline oil, although I can't see it being any different to most other brands Nice... The oil filter location... At least the subframe wont rust any time soon I picked up a genuine fuel filter, this is part of the fuel pump assembly inside the fuel tank. Access can be found underneath the rear seat, you'll see this triangular cover Remove the 3x plastic 10mm nuts and lift the cover up, pushing the rubber grommet through The yellow fuel line clips push out in opposite directions, remove these completely. The two moulded fuel lines can now pull upwards to disconnect, along with the wire electrical plug. There's 8x 8mm bolts that secure the black retaining ring. The fuel pump assembly is now ready to lift out. Be mindful of the fuel hose on the side, the hose clamp on mine was catching the hose preventing it from lifting up The fuel pump/filter has an upper and lower section held on by 4 pressure clips. These did take a little bit of force, it sounded like the plastic tabs were going to break but they didn't (don't worry!) The lower section helps mount the fuel pump, there's a circular rubber gasket/grommet/seal thing on the bottom where the sock is. Undo the hose clip on the short fuel hose on the side to disconnect it from the 3 way distribution pipe to be able to lift the upper half away. Don't forget to unplug the fuel pump too! There's a few rubber O rings that will need transferring to the new filter housing, I show these in the video at the bottom of this write up. Reassembly is the reverse Here's a photo of the new filter installed, you'll be able to see where the tabs are more clearing against the yellow OEM plastic Once the assembly is re-installed, I turned the engine over a few times to help build up fuel pressure. I did panic when the car stopped turning over but I could hear the fuel pump making a noise. It eventually started and has been fine since. Found my 'lucky' coin underneath the rear seat too The Youtube video can be seen here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uLJ65pmQt44&t=6s
×
×
  • Create New...