Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

I have an r32 4 door rb 20 det manual my son handed down to me.

It has a heap of mods but is too lagy down low compared to my xr6 turbo and v8 so I have decided to drop a v8 into it.

From what I can find out it is a reasonably easy conversion and has heaps more room to work on plus is lighter than the original engine.

Should be a quick and stealthy car when finished.

Any one here done a chev conversion.

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/380585-ls2-v8-transplant/
Share on other sites

Hi

I have an r32 4 door rb 20 det manual my son handed down to me.

It has a heap of mods but is too lagy down low compared to my xr6 turbo and v8 so I have decided to drop a v8 into it.

From what I can find out it is a reasonably easy conversion and has heaps more room to work on plus is lighter than the original engine.

Should be a quick and stealthy car when finished.

Any one here done a chev conversion.

Cheers

If you don't have the ability to do the work yourself, budget a MINIMUM of 20K. If you do have the ability to do it yourself, you will need a basic budget of 10K (That's just buying stuff, and fabbing it...)

I'm halfway through putting an LS1 into my R33. It doesn't leave you with more room, in fact, you end up with less. The motor is the exact same length as an RB26 (I had both sitting side by side) and is MUCH wider. You also need to factor in getting a 2.5" exhaust pipe down past the steering column.

You will need custom mounts, custom tail shaft, to fabricate up clutch lines, all intake to be custom, radiator lines modified etc etc.

Basically EVERYTHING needs to be custom.

It is NOT a simple conversion, although you really don't have to cut much, just that everything needs to be custom made.

Engine is lighter, but the gearbox is heavier, you end up winning by around 20 to 50KG at max.

Edit: I'm also making things easier and ditching all emmisions gear as this is going to be track only.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • Which solenoid? Why was it changed? Again, why was this done? ...well, these wear..but ultimately, why was it changed? Did you reset the idle voltage level after fitment? I'm just a tad confused ~ the flash code doesn't allude to these items being faulty, so in my mind the only reason to change these things, would be some drive-ability issue....and if that's the case, what was the problem? Those questions aside, check if the dropping resistor is OK ...should be 11~14 ohms (TCU doesn't throw a flash code for this) ~ also, these TCU designs have full time power (to keep fault code RAM alive), and I think that'll throw a logic code (as opposed to the 10 hardware codes), if that power is missing (or the ram has gone bad in the TCU, which you can check..but that's another story here perhaps).
    • Question for people who "know stuff" I am looking at doing the new intake like the one in the picture (the pictured is designed for the OEM TB and intake plenum), this design has the filter behind the front bar, but, the filter sits where the OEM duct heads into the front bar, and the standard aperture when the OEM ducting is removed allows the filter to pulled back out of the front bar into the engine bay for servicing, a simple blanking plate is used to seal the aperture behind the filter This will require a 45° silicone hose from the TB, like the alloy pipe that is currently there, to another 45° silicone hose to get a straight run to the aperture in the front bar Question: how will it effect the tune if I move the MAF about 100-150mm forward, the red is around where my MAF is currently, and the green would be where it would end up Like this This is the hole the filter goes through  Ends up like this LOL..Cheers    
    • Despite the level up question, actually I do know what that is....it is a pressure sender wire.  So check out around the oil filter for an oil pressure sender, or maybe fuel pressure near the filter or on the engine. Possibly but less likely coolant pressure sensor because they tend to be combined temp/pressure senders if you have one. Could also be brake pressure (in a brake line somewhere pre ABS) but maybe I'm the only one that has that on a skyline.
    • Pull codes via the self-diagnosis procedure. As far as I can tell this is just a sign of transmission issues but not a code unto itself.
    • Hi All, putting the engine back together and everything is perfect except have this plug left over.. any ideas what it is for and where it goes? Is on cold side under the intake plenum *note not a stock plug, as everything has been modified Cheers
×
×
  • Create New...