Jump to content
SAU Community

Soarer, No Power To Anything, Lights, Dash, Everything.

xALmoN

By xALmoN,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

xALmoN Grand Master

xALmoN

Posted
Posted

So, the story goes like this.

I had to replace my fan shroud to clear a roadworthy inspection, and due to that, I had to take out my battery and the battery tray so that the shroud would actually fit.

When i put everything back together, including the battery, the car wouldn't start and there's no power to anything. And there's this 3rd wire that's confusing the hell out of me.

I was thinking, how hard is it to put back a battery right? Its apparently pretty damn hard. Attached is a picture of the 3 wires. I've checked the fuses, they all seem fine. Might be a dead relay? Or no earth?

post-61332-0-77355200-1318947653_thumb.jpg

help me solve this issue.

emts Grand Master

emts

Posted
Posted

ok so that's not the best pic I've seen, but it kinda looks like the positive is hooked up to something touching the chassis,

ie the earth/negative side.

so they need to be reversed.

or I just could be looking at that completely wrong..or drunk!

DVS JEZ Grand Master

DVS JEZ

Posted
Posted

Is the battery charged? Use a test light to trace the power to where it stops or if there is any power in the battery.

The charge indicator looks red in the pic.

Need a better picture of the 3rd wire u speak of. What sort of end does it have

xALmoN Grand Master

xALmoN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

the battery light has been red for as long as i can know, car still drives fine, in fact, two nights ago, i had gone for some spirited driving.

I just know its something bloody silly. And i also realised i should have taken the clamping things off instead of the wires, so, lesson to some, don't do mech work when you're sleepy as hell. Charge across battery is 13v. I've connected a jumper pack to the leads and no power either.

post-61332-0-24542900-1318979855_thumb.jpg

post-61332-0-65152500-1318979884_thumb.jpg

xALmoN Grand Master

xALmoN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

lol andrew, its been sorted, thanks man. Its a massive facepalm moment. I had actually thought yesterday arvo, that i should have connected both + sides to each other but, i didn't dare to do so. fuses and relays are scary things when blown. but nothing's wrong now.

Cheers guys!

lesson learnt, take off the clamping things instead of the leads.

Hanaldo Grand Master

Hanaldo

Posted
Posted

Haha glad you got it sorted. Just looked at the pic and thought it looks fairly standard, one line on the positive will go to the starter motor and the other line will go to the fuse box, not sure where the problem is :P

xALmoN Grand Master

xALmoN

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Haha glad you got it sorted. Just looked at the pic and thought it looks fairly standard, one line on the positive will go to the starter motor and the other line will go to the fuse box, not sure where the problem is :P

yeah i know right, electronics just do my head in. when i see those wires go into the darkness. meh.. my mind shuts down.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • LegendGTR
      EFR7670 exhaust selection RB26

      By LegendGTR · Posted

      I'm looking for some real world experiences/feed back from anyone who has personally ran a EFR7670 with a 1.05 exhaust housing or a .83 I'm leaning towards the .83 because its a street car used mostly for spirited driving in the canyons roads. I"m not looking for big numbers on paper. I want a responsive powerband that will be very linear to 8000 rpm. I dont mind if power remains somewhat flat but dont want power to drop off on top. The turbo I've purchased is a 1.05, although the mounting flange T3 vs T4 and internal vs external waste gates are different on both housings, I not concern about swapping parts or making fabrication mods to get what I want. Based on some of the research I've done with chat gpt, the 1.05 housing seems to be the way to go with slightly more lag and future proofing for more mods but recommends .83 for best response/street car setup. AI doesn't have the same emotions as real people driving a GTR so I think you guys will be able to give me better feed back 😀   
    • PranK
      Stock Airbox and Snorkle for RWC - VIC west

      By PranK · Posted

      Surely somebody has one in VIC. Have you asked at any shops?  Is this the yearly inspection or did you get a canary?
    • PranK
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By PranK · Posted

      This is where I share pain with you, @Duncan. The move to change so many cooling system pieces to plastic is a killer! Plastic end tanks and a few plastic hose flanges on my car's fail after so little time.  Curious about the need for a bigger rad, is that just for long sessions in the summer or because the car generally needs more cooling?
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      So, that is it! It is a pretty expensive process with the ATF costing 50-100 per 5 litres, and a mechanic will probably charge plenty because they don't want to do it. Still, considering how dirty my fluid was at 120,000klm I think it would be worth doing more like every 80,000 to keep the trans happy, they are very expensive to replace. The job is not that hard if you have the specialist tools so you can save a bit of money and do it yourself!
    • Duncan
      7 Speed Auto transmission fluid change (Skyline, Q50, Q60, Fuga, Q70, A62 Titan and probably heaps of others including Navara...)

      By Duncan · Posted

      OK, onto filling. So I don't really have any pics, but will describe the process as best I can. The USDM workshop manual also covers it from TM-285 onwards. First, make sure the drain plug (17mm) is snug. Not too tight yet because it is coming off again. Note it does have a copper washer that you could replace or anneal (heat up with a blow torch) to seal nicely. Remove the fill plug, which has an inhex (I think it was 6mm but didn't check). Then, screw in the fill fitting, making sure it has a suitable o-ring (mine came without but I think it is meant to be supplied). It is important that you only screw it in hand tight. I didn't get a good pic of it, but the fill plug leads to a tube about 70mm long inside the transmission. This sets the factory level for fluid in the trans (above the join line for the pan!) and will take about 3l to fill. You then need to connect your fluid pump to the fitting via a hose, and pump in whatever amount of fluid you removed (maybe 3 litres, in my case 7 litres). If you put in more than 3l, it will spill out when you remove the fitting, so do quickly and with a drain pan underneath. Once you have pumped in the required amount of clean ATF, you start the engine and run it for 3 minutes to let the fluid circulate. Don't run it longer and if possible check the fluid temp is under 40oC (Ecutek shows Auto Trans Fluid temp now, or you could use an infrared temp gun on the bottom of the pan). The manual stresses the bit about fluid temperature because it expands when hot an might result in an underfil. So from here, the factory manual says to do the "spill and fill" again, and I did. That is, put an oil pan under the drain plug and undo it with a 17mm spanner, then watch your expensive fluid fall back out again, you should get about 3 litres.  Then, put the drain plug back in, pump 3 litres back in through the fill plug with the fitting and pump, disconnect the fill fitting and replace the fill plug, start the car and run for another 3 minutes (making sure the temp is still under 40oC). The manual then asks for a 3rd "spill and fill" just like above. I also did that and so had put 13l in by now.  This time they want you to keep the engine running and run the transmission through R and D (I hope the wheels are still off the ground!) for a while, and allow the trans temp to get to 40oC, then engine off. Finally, back under the car and undo the fill plug to let the overfill drain out; it will stop running when fluid is at the top of the levelling tube. According to the factory, that is job done! Post that, I reconnected the fill fitting and pumped in an extra 0.5l. AMS says 1.5l overfill is safe, but I started with less to see how it goes, I will add another 1.0 litres later if I'm still not happy with the hot shifts.
×
×
  • Create New...