Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

That's the thing about the precisions if you want low boost you can if you want big #'s turn it to 35psi. Why limit yourself with thr 6262for 4-500rpm.. On supra forum there's a good guide on how to make the stock auto live with big power.. If you stick to the same rules as the guys with built stock auto running 8's in full weight supra it should handle high 400rwhp ok.

  • Replies 203
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cheers for the info, I'll have a few drinks tonight and Sort it all out.

Just came back inside after fitting the exhaust manifold....an angle grinder was used lol

but its all fitted up :)

pics of my grinding work to come lol

Hmm crappy pic...but the only one I took today and there are not any photos on this page yet.

298985_10150359819126699_526751698_8443814_1990183990_n.jpg

Used the T78 to mock up the intake pipe, had some 3/4" push lock hose laying about so removed the funky 180deg metal heater hose bend (gives me more room and looks neater (see earlier pics of said funky 180deg metal thing lol)

Painted the intake pipe with gloss black engine enamel, and went to paint the coil pack cover thing the same but, got one little spurt of paint from the can and it was empty...So now I have 1 big black spot on it..... >_< Will finish later.

Forgot to get pics of my epic angle grinder attack on the manifold so will do that tomorrow....If I remember. Going to marques in the park for some inspiration.

Nate I see you reading, come say hi (and give me your wheels lol)

Lol, should i drive up to canberra for you to help me out with the signal stalk problem?

nah, i'll sell this thing, the moment i fix something, something else goes wrong, i'm so over this. Might get into a vvti one day...

Lol, fixed the indicator issue already, i found a 10amp fuse where it was supposed to be 15amps. what a goose, that previous owner. how did it manage to survive this long however, i have no idea. the fuse that is.

car will be going on carsales, next week.

yeah 6262 with a twinscroll .84 A/R rear on it

should just touch 400rwkws with a set of drop in cams on the 1JZ at 30 or so psi and E85

even if it doesnt make 400 the area under the curve will be a lot better

hahah, was it in the absolute pain in the ass fuse box by the accelerator pedal?

I hate the one!

Everything should have been in the neat one under the bonnet

yeah, even asian sized me, i knocked my head on the steering wheel twice. you want the whole conversion kit? 2.8k its yours.

=x

nah people ask silly money for 2nd hand torsen diffs...will get a TRD 1.5way for similar $$$

will have a surge tank and 2 x 044s, ECU wise I have no idea at this stage but leaning towards the Adaptronic E1280S

will cross that bridge when I come to it I guess

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Legend. I ended up finding the facebook account of the owner of the first car i sent but sadly he deactivated the account. I think you’re right in saying it’s some sort of well done custom job. Really appreciate your help anyways.
    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
×
×
  • Create New...