Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey,

Ive noticed that when the car hasnt been started for a while ( atleast 3 days) that it will run a bit ruff and shaky for about 20seconds,( exactly like when you give a wipper snipper too much choke and it starts up all shakey then comes good)

Does anyone have this happen? If driven daily it doesnt do this.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381072-quick-question-on-cold-start/
Share on other sites

how old are the plugs? if old, then try replacing them. also, next time you let it sit for a little while, try letting the fuel pump prime for a few seconds before you start the car (turn the key to ON, let it sit for a few seconds, then turn it to START).

it may also be that your injectors are a little dirty and could do with a proper clean (remove and have professionally clean, not just a bottle of injector cleaner). might be worth changing the fuel filter as well.

final thing is, how old is the fuel in the car? if the car doesn't get driven much, and so the fuel is a few months old, then that won't be helping the problem.

how old are the plugs? if old, then try replacing them. also, next time you let it sit for a little while, try letting the fuel pump prime for a few seconds before you start the car (turn the key to ON, let it sit for a few seconds, then turn it to START).

it may also be that your injectors are a little dirty and could do with a proper clean (remove and have professionally clean, not just a bottle of injector cleaner). might be worth changing the fuel filter as well.

final thing is, how old is the fuel in the car? if the car doesn't get driven much, and so the fuel is a few months old, then that won't be helping the problem.

plugs would be about 10 000kms old

usually let it stop its priming so 5seconds, it primes again when the key is turnt ( must be normal)

Fuel filter is 5000km's old

fuel is one week old so fresh, it was being driven daily then was not started for 4days

if driven daily or every couple of days it will start without the symptoms, but ill replace the plugs, filter again and injectors will be replaced in a few months

cheers for the input :cool:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, it's getting like that, my daughter is coming over on Thursday to help me remove the bonnet so I can install the Carbuilders underbonnet stuff,  I might get her to give me a hand and remove the hardtop, maybe, because on really hot days the detachable hardtop helps the aircon keep the interior cool, the heat just punches straight through to rag top I also don't have enough hair for the "wind in the hair" experience, so there is that....LOL
    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
×
×
  • Create New...