Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

OK.. I've had my car off the road since Easter.

I did the 100,000 service myself (water pump, timing belt etc.). I figured while I was doing that it would be a good time to install a forward facing plenum, Q45 TB, adj. cam gears, ext. manifold, new intercooler + piping.

Long story short it's been nothing but problems. I think everything is back together correctly.. The thing is when I crank it, there doesn't seem to be any spark. I get code 55 - all ok via consult

What I've tries thus far:

Checked all plugs etc connected

new battery

new earth lead to neg. terminal

new lead from positive lead to fuse box in boot

spinning CAS with ignition on (injectors click)

reversing the fuel lines in case I got it backwards

test light jammed in a coil (no sparks when cranking)

Any advice would be appreciated.

other stuff on the car that worked fine before I messed with it:

RB20ECU with nistune daughter board

T04

splitfire coilpacks

Z32 AFM

Bosch fuel pump

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381199-r33-s2-wont-start-no-spark/
Share on other sites

Have you checked the earth points in the engine bay, just below the fuse box.

I had a problem for 2 years where if i used anything electrical in my car it would shoot to 2000rpm and stay there until i turned the applience off E.G lights

Its simply was arcing on the paint work so i sanded back a little bit and its been fine. Just start with the basics.

Have you checked the earth points in the engine bay, just below the fuse box.

I just connected the test light to the positive side of the engine bay fuse box and touched the head, block, manifolds and the light glows bright. So the earth must be good.

Is it possible to disconnect the coil loom and stick a multimeter on the pins of the plug? If anyone can tell me the proper method (multimeter setting, where to put each lead etc. What values I should get with the ignition on).

All coilpacks should have a common power wire. Normally the same colour on all 6 plugs. Check these have power.

U will need an LED test light to check there is a pulse coming from the ecu on one of the other pins in the coilpack plug

Hi i have just done a engine rebuild with a forward facing manifolf greddy style and i had the black earth wires earthed near the vct contoller and i had the manifold painted and a thermal gasket and my engine would not fire i had to remove the paint and for extra insurance i ran an extra earth strap to manifold then car has ran sweet since hope this is of some help

I give up. I'm towing it to BoostWorx

I'm pretty sure I had good earth to the plenum. I'll add a strap anyway. If I recall correctly the only place that wasn't earthed was the fuel rail. I figured that was by design due to the black plastic bushes?

Bostworx got it going: in a nut shell - Fuel lines backwards...

I tried that, so it may have been a combination of things like old battery/fuel pump etc. I just didn't go back and try the fuel hoses after the other "fixes" because I crossed it off the list.

Thanks to those who tried to help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
    • And if you have to drill the oil block, then just drill it for 1/4" and tap it BSP and get a 1/8 to 1/4 BSP bush. The Nissan sender will go straight in and the bush will suit the newly tapped hole. And it will be real strong, to boot.
    • No it doesn't. It just needs an ezy-out to pull that broken bit of alloy out of the hole and presto chango - it will be back to being a 1/8" hole tapped NPT. as per @MBS206 recco. That would be for making what you had in alloy, in steel. If you wanted to do just that instead of remote mounting like @Duncan and I have been pushing. A steel fitting would be unbreakable (compared to that tragically skinny little alloy adapter). But remote mounting would almost certainly be 10x better. Small engineering shops abound all over the place. A lathe and 10 minutes of time = 2x six packs.
    • Ahh. Well the block damage is a problem, you really need to run a tap or thread chaser through it to see if the threads can be saved, but any chips are likely to be bottom end bound which is bad. Earls seem to have what you need if you want to stick with mounting direct on the block: https://rceperformance.com.au/parts/earls-straight-adapter-1-8-npt-male-to-1-8-bspt-female.html, but as I said above I'd recommend remote mounting the sender
    • I'm not quite understanding or I'm missing steps here, (I appreciate people are trying to inform my brain but I am of the dumb, especially today) - All I want to do is mount the male BSPT of the OEM sender into the system somewhere without it snapping the adapter via vibration. The Nissan sender has a male 1/8 BSPT output. The block has a (very destroyed) 1/8 NPT input. I'm not really sure how a lathe assists with that, and also don't know anybody with a lathe, nor specifically what I would want to buy. I'm not really sure how adding additional adapters creates a better, more leak proof resilient seal here.
×
×
  • Create New...