Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey hows it going i got a R33 Series 2 which can not start, it cranks over but it wont start, it aint sputtering so it wouldnt be a fuel issue, but im thinking it could be down to the spark. The car originally had broken down while driving so i had to get it towed back home. The things i have currently done to the car is a ecu diagnostics check and it came up with 55 so everything is fine according to the ecu. I also chectked the spark plugs and did notice a very small amount of oil on the spark plug i only removed the first 3 spark plugs.

I did check the cables of the distrubator and everything seems fine, i However recently hit a pot hole and had probably caused to dislodge a gasket or something and its been losing a bit of oil latetly which has caused the oil level to go down and has caused a very noticeable amount of oil on the left side of the engine just under the turbo, so im not sure if this has anything to do with it. I also have also started to experience a bit of oil in the inlet system more then i used to, infect i used to not experience any oil.

The main thing i want to know is there any tips were you can guide me what i should do next to see if i can resolve the problem, or a possible sympton that usually causes problems like mine as i have had done a search on the forums and couldn't find anything.

Yours Truly,

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/381846-r33-not-starting/
Share on other sites

Hi i would be checking the turbo feed line incase it might be cracked or the oil return lines to the sump from the turbo and cylinder head

also check rocker cover bolts.There is not much else there unless you have damaged your sump remove the heat sheilds over your tubo

and it should give you a better inspection.

With your engine not firing it could still be your fuel pump or your crank angle sensor check to see if your fuel line pressurises then the ignition

is switched on and that you also hear the pump prime up.

Ive done the fuel check on the pump and i can hear it prime and ive taken the fuel hose off and gave it a crank and fuel started coming it out. I took of the crank angle sensor and turned the wheel and could hear the injectors going so id say its not that as well.

How would i go by checking the spark and coil packs to know if the problem is a spark related issue?

Pull a coilpack out of the bracket. Plug it in to the loom. Fit a spark plug to the coilpack. Rest the hex of the spark plug against an earth (something metal) and crank. See if the spark plug has a strong arc.

Can u explain more.

Did it stall and now won't start? If so what exactly happened when it stalled?

When it stalled it happened when i engaged the clutch so i thought it would it start up when i disengage it, but it didnt. So i tried cranking it and it kept turning over but it didnt sound like it was spluttering so i was thinking it would be spluttering if it was fuel, if it wasn't most likely something like a ignition or spark problem.

The spark plugs it currently has a brand new Bosch Iridium ones which are gapped at 1.0mm they been working perfectly fine so far i did however check the and they look perfectly fine for something thats been in the car for the past 300ks.

I am however getting a set of coil packs for a series 2 this week and possibly going to change them over to see if its down to the coil packs.

I will try today the spark plug problem and give it a show if its down to the spark

Okay i got the car started i changed the ecu over, however the car now is running quite rich it blows black smoke, i however am having a very rough idle issue it sounds like a really lumpy 69 camero but it sounds like its struggling to stay on and its reving at about 800 rpm, i also get this ticking sound from the turbo and exhaust manifold area.

Would you possibly know what the cause of this could be, im guessing it could be a fuel relay. However i did check the injectors and the only one didnt seem to change in idle was first injector not sure which one it is but its the first one when looking from the front.

However all the others changed when i took the plug out except for that one.

How long did you run it for could be a build up of fuel in the cylinders correct me if I'm wrong. Ticking sound could be a small exhaust leak check to see if all the studs are still there and gaskets are in good condition

I ran it for a good 10minuets, ill reset the fuel pump tomorrow and ill also check the leak i think it could be i need some new studs, as i recently replaced the exhaust gasket. Though the rough idle im sort of worried about it, its quite rough its i got to admit, its a strong vibration, like it would sound awesome in a muscle car not so cool in an import

Okay car aint running rough any more i replaced the exhaust manifold head studs as i saw a bit of carbon build up so ive replaced them however i took the car out for a short drive today and its back firing real bad and its struggling to boost up, however it broke down after 5 minuets again same problem it wont crank over, would you guys were i could check next.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...