Jump to content
SAU Community

Detailed, 34Sedan (No Buffer - Hand)

Allesandro

By Allesandro,
in Exterior & Interior Styling

 Share

Recommended Posts

Allesandro Explorer

Allesandro

Posted
Posted (edited)

After spending the past few days off work due to having my wisdom teeth taken out,I thought it would be a good opportunity to detail the car fully instead of only managing to Do half the job on a Sunday morning, which still at the end of it - feels good but incomplete.

Overall spent a good solid 4 hours or so doing each step by hand ( could have taken much longer but seeming that I had already clay barred the car only a few months ago it didn't need all that much this time over)

From what I can see hardly any swirl marks or deep scratches and the pearl in the paint has so much more depth and gloss since when the 34 was first bought :)

Reason for the post is to see if there could be any areas i can improve on, or to show others results of a good days work :)Note: didn't manage to take photos of before unfortunately.

-------------------------------------

Process/products used:

Wash/dry: Meguiars next gen shampoo, dried off with Meguiars super-glide chamois

Clay bar: Meguiars quick clay kit > wiped down with 100% cotton cloth or supreme shine microfiber cloth.

Cut/polish: Meguiars ultimate compound > again wiped down with 100% cotton cloth or supreme shine microfiber cloth.

Wax: Meguiars next gen liquid wax ( left to sit for an hour to be sure it set, worked on areas listed below) and wiped down with supreme shine microfiber cloth.

* for door trims and seals - Meguiars dash trim and restorer.

* glass/windows - no smear glass cleaner.

* headlights - Meguiars PlastiX.

* tyres/sidewalls - Meguiars xtreme tyre shine.

post-77400-0-85984300-1320464294_thumb.pngpost-77400-0-84849800-1320464679_thumb.jpgpost-77400-0-52885000-1320464327_thumb.pngpost-77400-0-75802200-1320464349_thumb.pngpost-77400-0-68823500-1320464367_thumb.pngpost-77400-0-76240200-1320464699_thumb.jpgpost-77400-0-98426400-1320464715_thumb.jpg

Edited by Allesandro
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382131-detailed-34sedan-no-buffer-hand/
Share on other sites
Jonno34 Mentor

Jonno34

Posted
Posted

tech wax is definitely a great wax :)

by far my favourite off the shelf product.

hope you kept washing in between each stage! very important to wash again after clay barring and polishing the car to make sure the cars perfectly clean for the next stage.

what about wheels/tyres! - i found meguiars hot wheels cleaner to be near useless btw, but most of their products are pretty good.

the next steps you can take are to start cleaning up your door jambs, boot jambs, inside the petrol lid with something like a general purpose cleaner and then giving them a coat of quick wax - something like the meguiars spray waxes or spray detailers would be great there.

and engine bay is another area you could work on.

if you want another step up in your detailing get some paintbrushes from bunnings, something like final inspections GPC, and clean every nook and cranny in your interior - especially air vents and around the gearstick boot etc.

and finally paint correction by machine if you're really keen :)

hope that gives you some ideas, but looks like a job well done!

btw im due for my wisdom teeth too ermm.gif

Allesandro Explorer

Allesandro

Posted
  • Author
Posted

No I didn't wash between each stage! Never seemed to have crossed my mind =o

I generally do clean the rims with acid cleaner(also meguiars) but ran out a few weeks ago so just brushed off as much as I could :)

I've never thought about the engine bay nor air vents, with the vents Id go over the top with the bristle attachment of the vacuum cleaner lol.Again I've never used buffers or machines. A bit of an eerie thought for me since I wouldn't have that technique on using them properly :)

Next time I'll definitely work on the engine bay and inside of the petrol lid, cheers Johnno.Have you booked in to get your wisdoms taken out yet? It's been since Wednesday and my face is still swollen chubby haha.

Oh I forgot to ask have you fixed that door/skirt issue?

Jonno34 Mentor

Jonno34

Posted
Posted

as long as your vents arent too dirty its fine, i get a bit anal and get some water or GPC and a paintbrush and brush around there ..

brushes are also good for getting areas like badges on the outside clean

if you get a DA polisher like the meguiars ones their really safe - but hard to do much paint correction

Random Orbitals are good stuff, especially ones with forced rotation - not really too hard but doesnt look like your paint needs it :)

nah ill keep procrastinating on the wisdom teeth i think thumbsup.gif

the door has been fixed! greg at spoiler shop loosened the hinges, jacked the door up, and then tightened it up again and it seems to have fixed the problem, but the skirts are still paintless, need to get em off and repainted - $300 :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...