Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys

I've got some mostly S15 stuff to sell. Everything came off a JDM Manual turbo car.

Stuff is in good condition unless otherwise stated.

Pics can be seen here.

https://picasaweb.go...feat=directlink

Im located in Baulkham Hills 2153, Sydney NSW

All prices are FIRM.

Intresting Stuff

----------------------

1. S15 Front Seats. A little tiny bit of fading on drivers side, but no tears or rips. Comes with rails as well. $300

2. S15 Rear seats. Good condition, no rips or tears, but have been sitting in the shed for a while, so need a wash. $50

3. 4 x S15 480cc injectors. $200

4. S15 Greedy Thermostat block adaptor thing. Has Dash 10 fittings for an oil cooler. $100

5. Just Jap Recaro copy seat. Drivers side. Perfect condition, has never been used. Its red. $100

6. D1 Spec Just Jap oil catch can. I bought it about 3 years ago, but I've never used it. Its still in its original box. $30

7. Honda Integra DC2R carbon fiber rear lip. It can be made to fit S15 front bumper with some heatgun goodness and some bending, but it sits really low, so i dont want to install it. $100

8. S15 Sandwitch plate for oil filter. Has 2 sensor fittings. $20

9. S15 Exedy Heavy Duty clutch. Comes with stock dual mass flywheel, and all bolts. Its got heaps of meat left. Its been barely used. $150

10. S15 Exedy Brass button clutch with heavy-as-hell pressure plate and stock dual mass flywheel. The clutch is worn, and it all has been sitting around for about 1 year, so theres surface rust everywhere. $50

11. Earls Oil filter relocation block. It has Dash 10 fittings, and the hread suits a 3/4" oil filter. It has no sensor ports. $20

S15 Boring Stuff

---------------------

1. S15 stock rear camber arms - $30

2. S15 stock rear toe arms - $30

3. S15 stock tie rods - $50

4. S15 stock tie rod ends - $50

5. S15 stock castor rods. I think the bushings are gone. $20

6. S15 stock Xenon light modules. Come with the bulbs as well. $40

7. S15 stock BOV. Comes with the mounting bracket as well.

8. S15 rear hubs. One of the hubs is missing 3 bolt studs. Nissan sell these for about $7 new. $150

9. S15 tailshafts. The longer one has the thread a bit screwed cause i smashed it with a hammer when i took it out of the hub. Its not that bad, but it does need a bit of fixing. $50

10. S15 Engine and gearbox mounts. Have around 120,000kms on them, so a bit worn, but not broken. $20 EACH

11. S15 Front shock mounts. The bushings are pretty screwed. $20

12.S15 Washer bottle - $20

13. S15 Intake cam gear. $20

14. S15 RHS only front lower control arm. $15

15. S15 RHS only TEIN castor rod. $50

I have a bent/broken LHS castor rod and TEIN control arm as well, but theyre really bent. You can have them for free if you want.

16. S15 Fuel pump. $50

17. S15 gearbox shifter rubber boot thing. $10

18. S15 front LHS seatbelt

19. S15 interior trim panels. $20 EACH. Look at the pics to see which ones there are.

Skyline Stuff

-----------------

1. R33 Rear bumper bar. It has been sanded down back to plastic about 75%. $20

2. Sparco (I think) drivers side seat rail for Skyline. Its bottom mount, similar to the bride ones. It came off a sparco seat. I dont know what else will fit on it. $50

3. R34 GT Non-turbo wheels. I think specs are 16x6.5" with +40 offset. All tyres are shagged. $150

4. ECR33 S2 Front grille. Silver. All clips are there. $20

Edited by Goosy

Oops, some mistakes in the first post

S15 BOV should be $50

And I dont have the intake cam gear (aka the VCT thing). Its actually the camshaft itself.

  • 2 weeks later...

Hey mate you don't happen to have a stock JDM S15 ECU by any chance do you? Shoot me a PM

Edited by ryu1605
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...