Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Adding to this description I wrote a few weeks ago....

"I was driving it the other night not fast just normal and I felt it lagging pretty bad like it didnt want to idle any higher than all of a sudden, I stopped at the traffic lights like normal and pulled off from them and the car struggled to even move. I pushed the peddle all the way in than all the way out. Nothing! It moved but not very fast or even above 20km/h. It was like dying on me I swear. I was so worried cause I dont know what it was.. Its happened once before yet ive only had the car what like two weeks. I turned the car off straight after it lagged like that for about 10 minutes and it was fine but I know it wasnt normal. Hate stressing bout it :("

To add to that, it happened again the day before yesterday. I thought it was stuck in snow (the button) well its the car. If im driving the car, nothing goes wrong but if I just sit there on the spot in drive I can hear and feel this noise coming from the engine.. It sounds like thudding noises. I rev it so it goes away but comes straight back. After a few minutes of that happening is when the car will lag on me. It does it when the cars hot or just turned on, doesnt matter.. What the hell is it? Im thinking something to do with the gear box like the peddle slipping or something.. (its an automatic, non turbo) can anyone help?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/382882-so-its-happening-again/
Share on other sites

So that could be one thing, what else? Its only done the lag 3 times but that noise that the car makes before the car lags is almost everytime I pull up at the lights. The car sounds agry lol. But thanks for your reply, at least you have :rolleyes:

i'm sorry but to me a "blown" catalytic converter would not cause intermittent trouble like this. A "blown" catalytic converter would be constant. Also a "blown" catalytic converter would make the car seem underpowered but not down right unusable, and overcome by turning the car off then on. I'm a little lol about about this catalytic converter idea to be honest. There is zero logic in that. Maybe its the intercooler lol?

My 2 bob is that it sounds more like an electrical problem. What exactly i don't know. But electrical problems are often intermittent like this.

Well maybe the catalytic needs to be replaced as in its times up.. I wouldnt know but so far its the closest thing to what may be wrong.it effects the idle and the revs so i though gear box troubles. I fix one thing than another problem occours... I just want it to run great with not alot of attention. Also I just want to know, will this kinda thing if left untreated get worse?

a blown catalytic converter makes the car close to unuseable.......

if a piece of the inside comb breaks off, and actually blocks the majority of the inner matrix, it will stop all exhaust flow.

you will have no power and be forced to drive home on light throttle to even get anywhere.

im not saying it is, but its an easy diagnosis, drop your exhaust from front cat, and see how it looks inside.

but if it makes a rattling noise, it sounds to be mechanical.

+1 to the film clip, or a sound clip. it might help more :)

if it's the cat then can you explain why it would go away after turning the car off for 10 minutes. Again, a dead cat would give constant power loss if blocking exhaust, and in some cases a power increases in fact since the cat is a restriction to flow in the exhaust.

a few questions to original poster:

When you put peddle to floor when this is happening, does the engine actually rev out but car doesn't move, or do revs not climb at all? I don't think you've told us that.

+1 for video also.

I still think it's electrical

spark plugs

air flow meter

throttle position sensor

coil packs

etc....

when my cat blew, it gave a constant power loss above 2k rpm, below that it would drive sluggish, but the car could still accelerate.... till 2k rpm

when your cat blows, it will veeeeeery rarely blow the entire comb out, mine blew about 1/5th out and it shattered, and those shattered pieces would clog up the rest of the comb.

when turned off, those pieces fell into the matrix so the comb was not clogged no more. but after turning it on, it only took about 10 seconds tho till it was clogged again.... so i guess those 10 mins are a bit long.

oh yeah, +1 about asking those extra questions, haha i was just in debate mode :P sorry

Ill try get a video or something but when I want it to happen so I can tape it, it doesnt lol and when I dont want it to it does lol.

And with the revs, ill have a look when it happens next time and tell you. I cant remember :wacko:

if it's the cat then can you explain why it would go away after turning the car off for 10 minutes. Again, a dead cat would give constant power loss if blocking exhaust, and in some cases a power increases in fact since the cat is a restriction to flow in the exhaust.

a few questions to original poster:

When you put peddle to floor when this is happening, does the engine actually rev out but car doesn't move, or do revs not climb at all? I don't think you've told us that.

+1 for video also.

I still think it's electrical

spark plugs

air flow meter

throttle position sensor

coil packs

etc....

Its my exhauast raddling.. Thats whats making those noises, ok so I figured out the noise but how come when that happens for a while, the car will lag.. So something to do with my exhaust.. Phew lol

hmmm, dont forget, sometimes noise and the problem arent necessarily related. might just be a loose bolt on your exhaust making that noise.

best thing besides going straight to a mechanic and plowing out money is getting someone you know, friend or family whos car minded (mechanical wise) just to look at the basics for you. like your muffler etc :)

  • 4 weeks later...

The same thing happened in my R33 - turned out it was actually some dead coil packs. Upgrade to Spitfires if you can and that should solve the problem.

So you are recommending he spends ~$500 on a set of coil packs because it "might" be the problem......

Coil pack issues normally present under load around 5000 rpm, not at idle....

How are you going with those 'racing tyres'? :blink:

I had the same issue with my old R33 - it was the cat, in my case it had fallen off from a poor install.

Just had the same symptoms appear with my girlfriends S15, huge loss of power and at some times it would even sound like a rexy. Hers was coil packs - just replaced all.

If I were you, i'd go in the following order -

1) Check the cat, if your not comfortable - go to an exhaust shop and have it done

2) Check your spark plugs - when were they last changed? Are the correct plugs being used?

3) Check your coil packs - see if someone on the forums or around your area can lend you a set, or put up a WTB for a used set and if this fixes your issue, maybe then look at grabbing some splitfires or brand new genuine nissan ones if you can afford it.

Come to think of it, I also had the same issue with my Evo. And when I checked the spark plugs, they were wet and rusted from the last owner probably cleaning the engine with a high pressure cleaner. So yeah, plugs are obviously key to the puzzle aswell.

So hopefully my last post above will help u out in some way.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Check the injectors flow evenly, and are actually flowing what you and the ECU think they should be flowing. If it's starting up on starter fluid, you have a fuel issue. Is it possible under cranking your fuel pump is turning off?   The harness you replaced, is that the whole engine harness? Do yourself a test, and drop the old harness on and plug it into the Z32 ECU. It's possible they've wired things different. From memory S1 to S2 is different in RB25 and you may have a wrong loom
    • I haven’t pulled the injectors to watch them spray yet but they are clicking from the cas and all of the spark plugs are wet with fuel. I’ve thought the cylinders were being flooded from the beginning and was hoping fuel pressure would fix it. Tonight I am going to pull the rail and watch the injectors spray. Don’t know how to test/diagnose if the plugs are firing in correct sequence but that should be a timing thing and as far as timing goes my car still has the half moon for the cas can only install it 1 way. And my mechanical timing is 100% correct I posted photos above. Confirmed with the balancer on and off. 
    • I checked spark on all cylinders and they all visually have spark with the plug pulled and grounded, but plug 1 is the only one that fouled. This was a running swap that blew up and was rebuilt by a machine shop, put a new wiring specialties harness and did all gaskets, studs, and bolts while it was out.  compression is 135-150 across all cylinders. Aside from that from my understanding with the z32 ecu and maf the car should start regardless. The wiring for TPS and the dual 02 sensor/ dual knock sensor stuff shouldn’t actually stop the car from starting or even running well, (just slightly rich)  they just give fault codes. Car supposedly is supposed to start as long as you have z32 afm and ecu with the nistune base map and that’s info coming from a well known and trusted tuner who does a lot with SR/RB (Rsenthalpy). After more trouble shooting today where I’m at right now is that the cas is sending signal to the injectors they click while spinning the rotor, Fuel pressure is now set at 43psi, all cylinders have good compression and all of the plugs looked great (just wet with fuel) except for cylinder 1 which was very black (cylinder 1 has 150psi compression). all of the coils generate spark if pulled out and grounded out on the head. On the fuel pump car just pops into the exhaust. On starting fluid car will fire off. Hard to tell if all cylinders are firing off but definitley a couple. sounds like all of them but it’s only for 3-5 seconds hard to tell. 
    • Final update!!! Got the front bar fitted and sprayed and all sorted now. My cutouts worked great and the indicators aren’t just falling off. 😂  
×
×
  • Create New...