Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just finished making and doing this to my GTT. Very time consuming process but well worth the hard work and end results. I've made molds off a GTR, so can make more peices if anyone wants/interested in them. (I am in NZ though) Can make the gtr front, sideskirts, rear bumper, nismo skirts/caps, wide rear arches (not identical to gtr slightly wider). I used genuine front gaurds, and sourced bonnet and spoiler. As i say alott of work but the end result has been worth it, very happy. Couple pics for those interested.

post-52658-0-11127200-1321649418_thumb.jpg

post-52658-0-76684500-1321649545_thumb.jpg

post-52658-0-02403200-1321649587_thumb.jpg

Edited by mawzy
  • Like 1

that looks really well done.... let me guess your a panel beater or spray painter??? its just a guess..

No I'm a builder by trade, skylines just my hobbie/interest. Had 32, and 33, always done as much work etc myself, otherwise wouldn't be able to afford. But was lucky enough to get access to a spray booth for the paint. Everything else has been done in my garage

Stupid fake GTRs

Stupid arrogant GTR owner.

  • Like 1

http://www.rhdjapan....B25DET&x=20&y=8

You can obtain most of the costs from this web page.

I favour the East Bear Masterpiece Collection kit. It's what's on my car.

Budget:

Purchase: $4000

Transport: $1800

Fitting & painting: $300

A much cheaper fibreglass kit, can be had from here, with the wide body option:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-2Door-GTT-GTR-style-wide-bodykit-/260821721289

This is not the VSpec II Nur look alike though. The masterpiece collect is, and also is FRP or CF.

Edited by TR33GT-001

http://www.rhdjapan....B25DET&x=20&y=8

You can obtain most of the costs from this web page.

I favour the East Bear Masterpiece Collection kit. It's what's on my car.

http://www.skylinesa...06062011346jpg/

A cheaper fibreglass wide body conversion, can be had here:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Nissan-Skyline-R34-GTT-2Door-GTT-GTR-style-wide-bodykit-/260821721289

However, this kit is not FRP, nor is it the VSpec II Nur look alike.

Edited by TR33GT-001
  • 2 years later...

For all the parts i make, can do at $1800NZ plus shipping (unknown) You would need to source bonnet and front fenders. If you aren't fitting and painting yourself, I would allow more than $300,

any chance your still making these parts?

  • 3 weeks later...

R34GTT to R34GTR. Not being an arrogant GTR owner - I just don't understand

(I have a 34GTT also)

Seems an expensive way to go.... If your that keen on the looks I suppose I can understand a little

but please NEVER put a GTR badge on anything other than a GTR

32 GTS-t's look a lot nicer with the GTR fronts on but IMHO not the 34GTT's

The black 34 above looks really well kept too

Edit: For the dollars mentioned above I'd upgrade to a 3076 with an .82 rear housing some ID injectors etc....

Edited by Sinista32

i think we can all agree that the GTR kit looks way better then any GT/T kit

i only did it because i did some front end damage and needed a new front bar and fenders and a bonnet was only a little more so i thought why not.

heres a before and after pic

OneYear_zps9545f80f.jpg

and how it sits now (obviously will never put any GTR badges on it)

IMG_3232_zpsbae5407e.jpg

IMG_3234_zps700a49d8.jpg

thats only the front end though, im going to get the skirt add ons and rear pods as well as pump my rear guards to fit bigger rims.

*sorry for the bad quality pics but i only have an iphone for a camera

Edited by IMPORTS ONLY

Okay persuaded - definitely a lot better

rims alone make/brake a 34's looks as well

also keep it clean of stickers

with the rear wing gone maybe think about removing the rear wiper and putting in a delete plug

yup definitely agree on the rims, dont know what i was doing with the stickers haha 34's look way better clean

and yup ive thought about getting rid of the rear wiper as a delete plug is only $50 but then the rear wiper jet is still there and that would look odd?

i think we can all agree that the GTR kit looks way better then any GT/T kit

Sorry, I disagree lol.

Here's my proof, car using stock front bar with oem lip, nismo skirts and stock rear bar.

1781188_10152596897129409_1215710287_o.j

1973609_10152596897204409_1615966804_o.j

Edited by Charles89

Sorry, I disagree lol.

Here's my proof, car using stock front bar with oem lip, nismo skirts and stock rear bar.

Hey Charles, is that a GTR front diffuser?

Does that just bolt right on to the oem lip, or did it need a bit of modification?

I have the same front as yours, but that lip sets it off

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...