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Handy Tuning R33 Gts25T

Manuel Kasko

By Manuel Kasko,
in Australian Capital Territory

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Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
Posted

Yo,

So browsing the interweb for things about aftermarket ECU's I stumbled across this step by step guide.

It pretty much explains the simple questions noobs like myself ask.

What kind of upgrade should I do next..etc

Worth a read for noobs.

Probably not worth a read for non noobs as most of you already know your road to success

http://nissanskyline.6te.net/tuning_GTS25T.htm

Enjoy f**kers

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zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

The guide is good, but a little backward if you ask me.

Decent ECU and fuel pump should be top priority and eliminates all the issues associated with boost increases (r&r/fuel cut/horrible fuel economy)

Edit to add - I wouldnt go anymore than 10psi on a stock turbo these days, they are simply too old and worn out, You can go more if you only do short bursts, but imo, not worth the risk

J'son Proficient

J'son

Posted
Posted

Great info. Done pretty well all the Stage one, and a little stage 2. But the costs, time and not really needing the extra power, are why not really done more. Next for me would be a new bolt on turbo, and a better fuel pump. With the new turbo though, i'd need some new pipes as half my intercooler pipes are still the stock size ones. But the car is running well and getting 220rwkw at 11psi, so i am pretty happy.

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Wow I hear they are made for the Jap fuel and environment.

Not worried about it running lean? or have you checked it on a dyno run

Right now my next step is an ECU or piggy back and im just stuck for ideas.

Dont know if I should go for the simple Safc 2 just for economy etc.

Or save all my dollars and go for a full replacement ECU such as a power fc

J'son Proficient

J'son

Posted
Posted (edited)

I dont get 220 from the ECU alone.

Spitfire coils, mines ecu, lightened flywheel, 11psi on stock turbo, FMIC, Apixi pod with heat sheild.

Posted the Dyno sheet above.

Edited by J'son
J'son Proficient

J'son

Posted
Posted (edited)

Beware the power FC computer things, afik are not rego legal ect....

You need to pay more to get the right tune and have it checked occasionally, the mines are plug and play from what i understand.. And they arent too badly priced.

If i wanted more power, i could get a larger bolt on turbo, update the other half of my turbo pipes and get a better fuel pump, but I am happy with what I have and cant afford to do more mods. Any time I do work and need to replace stuff though, I always go for an upgrade though.

Edited by J'son
J'son Proficient

J'son

Posted
Posted

I bought the car as is. 86,000kms with a major service just done that included a new radiator and all fluids.

I had to replace the belts, fuel pump, boost gauge and a few small cosmetic things... I got a front sway bar, HID's, did the stereo, new tires, got the alarm system upgraded and to inc a boot release... and standard maintenance of oil and fluids at regular intervals... Always do the oil at 5000km.

Spark plugs are also good high quality ones, compression was perfect 140psi at all cylinders (Pretty sure was 140, but they were all 100% the same, which is really good).

Only issue the car really had was it leaked around the rear tail light, and i had to spend weeks on and off getting that exactly right so didnt leak any more.

zebra Grand Master

zebra

Posted
Posted

Beware the power FC computer things, afik are not rego legal ect....

You need to pay more to get the right tune and have it checked occasionally, the mines are plug and play from what i understand.. And they arent too badly priced.

If i wanted more power, i could get a larger bolt on turbo, update the other half of my turbo pipes and get a better fuel pump, but I am happy with what I have and cant afford to do more mods. Any time I do work and need to replace stuff though, I always go for an upgrade though.

No aftermarket ecu or ecu mods are legal without an IM240 test an engineering cert and a password locked ECU.

What I meant by you don't have a genuine 220rwkws is that the factory turbo simply will not flow that much air, 190 @ 14psi is about all they will give, 200 if you really stretch the friendship and run on the ragged edge of both turbo life and knock threshold, also the standard injectors are out of puff at 220-230rwkws.

The Mines ECU's ARE fine...when they are still attached to the engine they were tuned on, which is why people kill engines when using them.

J'son Proficient

J'son

Posted
Posted

What I meant by you don't have a genuine 220rwkws is that the factory turbo simply will not flow that much air, 190 @ 14psi is about all they will give, 200 if you really stretch the friendship and run on the ragged edge of both turbo life and knock threshold, also the standard injectors are out of puff at 220-230rwkws.

The Mines ECU's ARE fine...when they are still attached to the engine they were tuned on, which is why people kill engines when using them.

I still dont totally follow Z. I get that the turbo has a limit, and i'm only running 10/11 psi. But that is true, i believe i still have standard injectors, what are they to upgrade? And fuel pumps? They are the next 2 simple upgrades i would look at.

How do people kill their engines with the ECUs? Not totally sure what you mean by that statement.

Manuel Kasko Grand Master

Manuel Kasko

Posted
  • Author
Posted

People chuck a ECU from say a lean running car. (bad air to fuel ratio)

Onto something with a huge turbo massive injectors etc.

The ECU is programmed to a certain A/F and when put on a car that requires a richer A/F it may go dry up and go bang!

Im currently in a group by for a bosch 044 fuel pump which are good to around 650hp

Its only $180 which is reasonable as they are normally around $240

Injectors depending on the brand and how many cc.

Your looking at anywhere between $300-$700 for a good pair

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