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Funding New Project. Prefer to be contacted by Mobile 0.4.6.8.8.8.7.4.4.0.

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KKR-480 TURBO (Less than 2000k's use,No Shaft Play) - $400

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RB25DET HEAD- Bare head Perfect for head replacement (Cleaned,Decked,prepped,Pressure Tested,Crack Tested,Valves Seated,Stem Seals replaced) - $450

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SIEMENS 3145 750CC TOP FEED INJECTORS(Suit RB26) - $400

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RB25DET RECO TURBO LSD (Tighter than ya mum fo real) - $400

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GFB DUAL MODE BLOWOFF VALVE (vent to atmosphere and plumback) - $50

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CA18 TOMEI CAM GEARS - $200

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38MM EXTERNAL WASTEGATE - $150

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MANUAL CONVERSION PEDALS (Accelerator,Brake and Clutch pedals) - $150

Accelerator Cable (Good condition) - $30

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GREDDY EMANAGE ECU (No idea what its for but it came in my car when i got it)(Comes with loom plugs) - $200

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RB25DET ACTUATOR - $5

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SR20 GENUINE NISMO SHORT SHIFTER - $100

Does the bov come with flange to fit to the rb25 ?

Yes. Will fit straight up to standard RB25 Blowoff flange. Comes with O-ring already installed.

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  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
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