Jump to content
SAU Community

R33 Gtr Vspec, With A Replaced Engine Issues

Skysthelimit
 Share

Recommended Posts

Skysthelimit Contributor

Skysthelimit

Posted
Posted

hi guys,

Hoping you can help me out with some queries.

2 months ago, my engine slipped a crank and resulted in me replacing the engine with another engine out of a R33 GTR Vspec with 70k.

I got the car back the other day, and I have found confusing temperature readings..

The Power FC shows the max temp it hits is 82 degrees, but on my dash, the temperature gauge it is high, hits the white line that is just before the max temp at the H. Coolant level seems fine, radiator fan spins. The oil temp seems fine from the stock gauge, sitting at around a third of the way to max. I have kept revs under 3.5k to keep things safe.

I am unsure which I should be trusting, whats the chances the Power FC is giving the wrong temp? I don't want to cook the engine that just got put in (I have it booked in at the end of the week).

Does the factory water temp gauge and the Power FC take temperature at different areas of the engine???

Also I have found the car to rev differently. When i release the clutch now, the revs drop to around 1700 rpm instead of down to idle. When stop at the lights, it might take about 20 seconds at 1700rpm before dropping down to the 950 idle. What can cause this, and is it something to worry about?

Thanks for any advice you can give me, much appreciated :thumbsup:

Skysthelimit Contributor

Skysthelimit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok thanks, I'd assume the same, but will try to check into it.

..also another thing I have noticed is..

on start up, I get a very high knock sensor reading from the power fc of around 200.

after that, the knock sensor is fine, reads under 35. I would like to assume, its just picking up some noise in that frequency from normal start up sounds.. but the old engine never picked up any abnormal high numbers on start up.. what's the possibility of this high reading meaning damage is being done? is it a concern?? :/

Cheers :)

r32line Mentor

r32line

Posted
Posted

Also I have found the car to rev differently. When i release the clutch now, the revs drop to around 1700 rpm instead of down to idle. When stop at the lights, it might take about 20 seconds at 1700rpm before dropping down to the 950 idle. What can cause this, and is it something to worry about?

Not a huge concern but the reason would be the way the Power FC has been programmed. A mate had a power FC put in his s15 and it did the exact same thing until he took it back and got it adjusted. Although I think in general, when you ahve a power FC and cold start the engine it tends to rev higher and for longer than a factory computer would. Talk to your tuner though.

As for the temperature issue I am not sure but playing it safe in the meantime like you said would be wise.

  • 2 weeks later...
Skysthelimit Contributor

Skysthelimit

Posted
  • Author
Posted

..ok.. further to the over heating issue..

So I had the thermostat looked at by the workshop that put the engine in. seemed ok.. they removed it and made sure it was opening properly..

but still overheated.

so today they replaced the temp sensor that sits where coolant comes out of the engine.

but the engine is still reading max over heating on the gauge. I even changed the dash cluster with a friend's, to see if it was a faulty gauge, and it reads at the very top of H now :/

The coolant does not run hot, its not bubbling like it should be if the reading is that high.

Can this mean coolant coming out of the engine is running hot, meaning some sort of engine problem??

I'm trying to now track down who sold the workshop the engine to see what they will have to say about it.

Any advice? Cheers

blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

There are 2 temp sensors just beside the thermostat housing - a single-pin sensor for the gauge in the dash, and a 2-pin sensor for the ECU. It sounds like your mechanic replaced the ECU sensor, you need to replace the gauge sensor.

The problem with the idle-down could be a dirty AAC valve - get it cleaned.

Skysthelimit Contributor

Skysthelimit

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

thanks for the info blind_elk, but I was actually there when he changed the sensor, he changed the single pin one that goes the the dash gauge..

which is weird why a brand new sensor made the gauge read even higher :/

I'm thinking I will change the ecu sensor too, cause I'm worried that's not reading correctly to the ecu

Edited by Skysthelimit
blind_elk Grand Master

blind_elk

Posted
Posted

Then maybe the wire to the sensor is worn and earthing out (you can test a gauge / sensor malfunction by earthing the connection to the sensor - gauge will go full scale if it is working correctly). What does the gauge say when the engine is cold?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Jarsky
      R33 Fuel Pump & Brakes after alarm swap

      By Jarsky · Posted

      Thought I would get some advice from others on this situation.    Relevant info: R33 GTS25t Link G4x ECU Walbro 255LPH w/ OEM FP Relay (No relay mod) Scenario: I accidentally messed up my old AVS S5 (rev.1) at the start of the year and the cars been immobilised. Also the siren BBU has completely failed; so I decided to upgrade it.  I got a newer AVS S5 (rev.2?) installed on Friday. The guy removed the old one and its immobilisers. Tried to start it; the car cranks but doesnt start.  The new one was installed and all the alarm functions seem to be working as they should; still wouldn't start Went to bed; got up on Friday morning and decided to have a look into the no start problem. Found the car completely dead.  Charged the battery; plugged it back in and found the brake lights were stuck on.  Unplugging the brake pedal switch the lights turn off. Plug it back in and theyre stuck on again. I tested the switch (continuity test and resistance); all looks good (0-1kohm).  On talking to AVS; found its because of the rubber stopper on the brake pedal; sure enough the middle of it is missing so have ordered a new one. One of those wear items; which was confusing what was going on However when I try unplugging the STOP Light fuses (under the dash and under the hood) the brake light still stays on. Should those fuses not cut the brake light circuit?  I then checked the ECU; FP Speed Error.  Testing the pump again; I can hear the relay clicking every time I switch it to ON. I unplugged the pump and put the multimeter across the plug. No continuity; im seeing 0.6V (ECU signal?) and when it switches the relay I think its like 20mA or 200mA). Not seeing 12.4V / 7-9A. As far as I know; the Fuel Pump was wired through one of the immobiliser relays on the old alarm.  He pulled some thick gauged harness out with the old alarm wiring; which looks to me like it was to bridge connections into the immobilisers? Before it got immobilised it was running just fine.  Im at a loss to why the FP is getting no voltage; I thought maybe the FP was faulty (even though I havent even done 50km on the new pump) but no voltage at the harness plug.  Questions: Could it be he didnt reconnect the fuel pump when testing it after the old alarm removal (before installing the new alarm)?  Is this a case of bridging to the brake lights instead of the fuel pump circuit? It's a bit beyond me as I dont do a lot with electrical; so have tried my best to diagnose what I think seems to make sense.  Seeking advice if theres for sure an issue with the alarm install to get him back here; or if I do infact, need an auto electrician to diagnose it. 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
×
×
  • Create New...