Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

suprised i havent seen you on the coast b4, but i bought my V35 same as yours 03 model in silver of 19k with the same KM on the clock ur going to be looking at 20-23k at the most for it. now with mine at 113,000KM i would be lucky to get 20k for it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6126744
Share on other sites

It sucks, but I have to agree, for $25-26k, you could probably get a 6sp premium with sub 50,000km on it.

Not a fan of the debadged look either, but that is just personal taste.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6126940
Share on other sites

guys cut him some slack...everyone knows you probably won't get the price you start at when selling online...gives room for low ballers. If he starts his price at 22k, some dickhead will probably offer him 18K.

At the end of the day it will sell for whatever people are willing to pay or depends on how desperate the seller is.

GL with the sale.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6127123
Share on other sites

fair enough, we sold my wife's corolla on car sales for the asking price in 1 week, because we put a reasonable price for it, but I guess if you are in no rush you can price it high and hope for the best.

But if you price it too high you will turn off the genuine buyers who would feel like they are 'low balling' when offering a reasonable price.

that's how I felt when buying my V35 anyway, I wasn't about to offer $5k below an asking price, even if I thought it was $5k overpriced.

the biggest problem with V35s on carsales is most sellers have no idea how much they are worth. There is even a 2005 6sp coupe on there for over $35k!! Who would be willing to offer him $10k below his asking price?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6127382
Share on other sites

fair enough, we sold my wife's corolla on car sales for the asking price in 1 week, because we put a reasonable price for it, but I guess if you are in no rush you can price it high and hope for the best.

But if you price it too high you will turn off the genuine buyers who would feel like they are 'low balling' when offering a reasonable price.

that's how I felt when buying my V35 anyway, I wasn't about to offer $5k below an asking price, even if I thought it was $5k overpriced.

the biggest problem with V35s on carsales is most sellers have no idea how much they are worth. There is even a 2005 6sp coupe on there for over $35k!! Who would be willing to offer him $10k below his asking price?

you summed it up pretty well there!

genuine buyers offer about 1-3k lower than advertised price

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6127492
Share on other sites

guys cut him some slack...everyone knows you probably won't get the price you start at when selling online...gives room for low ballers. If he starts his price at 22k, some dickhead will probably offer him 18K.

At the end of the day it will sell for whatever people are willing to pay or depends on how desperate the seller is.

GL with the sale.

I agree - it is stupid to start at a low price with no space to manoeuvre. I have just listed it and will adjust the price according to the response. Have already had a few enquiries.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6128650
Share on other sites

  • 4 weeks later...

Unfortunately I'm selling my Skyline 350 Gt coupe after 5 years of really enjoyable motoring. Anyone interested in an excellent example of a V35?Here is the link:

http://www.carsales....aspx?R=11680629

Had a few enquiries but no luck selling so far so have reduced price to $23,000 ONO.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6166008
Share on other sites

The car looks nice, but I am not in the market to buy as I already have mine, so feel free to ignore my questions.

How do you know that your mileage is genuine? I bought mine from a dealer with very low mileage, but I am sure it was wrong (due to the wear in the driver side carpet under the accelerator pedal). I am sure I have read someone mention a way to check?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6167750
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

The car looks nice, but I am not in the market to buy as I already have mine, so feel free to ignore my questions.

How do you know that your mileage is genuine? I bought mine from a dealer with very low mileage, but I am sure it was wrong (due to the wear in the driver side carpet under the accelerator pedal). I am sure I have read someone mention a way to check?

The best way to tell is the oxidation on the machined aluminium ABS module and the lip on the discs.

I sold my car today and it is the first car that I am sad about selling.

So this ends my association with SAu as I will access WRX and Golf GTi forums from now.

Thanks to all those who helped me in SAu over the 5 years of owning my V35 and to the the guys who have developed and run the site - it is an excellent site and very beneficial to Skyline owners. Enjoy your Skylines!!!!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384032-regretful-sale/#findComment-6192379
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
×
×
  • Create New...