Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 40
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Looks a little high, but that is not how Nissan gauges work. Basically all Nissan temp gauges will warm up to their normal running temperature, and sit there until the fluid actually boils (and you have broken something), and only THEN goes off the richter scale hot. Generally they don't move much inbetween.

But you should put a real temp gauge on every Nissan car imho - espeically one with a 95-100 degree warning light. Boiling cars is the 2nd easiest way to blow an engine (next to not enough oil/low oil pressure).

I put an awesome EL overlay over my cluster, and in the process of fitting it put my temp gauge out of scale - mine now sits between the 3rd and 2nd last lines when at operating temp (and already 1/3 way up when cold at start up). That's why I put in a real temp gauge

bleed the system, might need topping up. at that needle position youre probably looking at around 110-112degrees water temp. not the best, but is still operational.

if it doesnt have air in the system, look for a blockage, or check the status of your thermo fans. does it go back down when youre cruising again? if it doesnt, possibly a water pump issue.

Gosh...I and my mech didnt pickup this overheat issue when we do inspection before buying. Now it becomes annoying....

Do you guys think i should go back to Nissan dealer to have diagnosis checks? Or anyone can recommend any reliable mech in Brissy?

Thanks for you guys help~

or just check the fluid level so that you dont pay someone $180 to top up the radiator......

Did check fluid level is full & top water hose is not too hard to press, fan is only running when a/c is on but even a/c on, the temp is keeping in above middle line...what eles i should check by myself?

Your thermo fan should come on even when the a/c is off, once the car gets hot enough.

I would be checking for air in your system (which I bet is the cause). Or get a mechanic to install a water temp probe and actually check your water temp to see if your stock gauge is lying/broken.

bleed the system, might need topping up. at that needle position youre probably looking at around 110-112degrees water temp. not the best, but is still operational.

if it doesnt have air in the system, look for a blockage, or check the status of your thermo fans. does it go back down when youre cruising again? if it doesnt, possibly a water pump issue.

Just found your question when i was a bit panic, sorry, mate~

I havent flush the coolant yet, but will do soon.

What do you mean by "doesnt have air in the system, look for a blockage" how to check it? I check my fan only runs when a/c on but it doesnt go back to normal temp even with fan (a/c on) on or when i am cruising again.

Water pump issue? What other procedure that i can check whether it is water pum failure? Pls advise, thanks~

Your thermo fan should come on even when the a/c is off, once the car gets hot enough.

I would be checking for air in your system (which I bet is the cause). Or get a mechanic to install a water temp probe and actually check your water temp to see if your stock gauge is lying/broken.

Thanks, Andrew. How can you check air in your system?

Unscrew the little plastic bleed screw in the left hand side at the rear o fthe engine. If you look along the water piping you will see it - it is black plastic and has an X in it to unscrew it with a phillips-head screwdriver.

Hi Mikhail, so have you ever checked by Nissan or any V35 SERVICE SPECIALISTS before? Or you just leave it as it is?

I am leaving mine as is as I am pretty certain its normal. I think I saw a similar thread on here that said the same thing. I had mine serviced and no problems were found. Also my needle is just below the middle, yours is above middle.

If you have access to someone with a datascan tool, get them to check the coolant temperature with it, if it is around 85-90 deg C, then I wouldn't worry about it. Especiallly if it doesn't seem to go up and down when driving hard, or climbing hills

If you have access to someone with a datascan tool, get them to check the coolant temperature with it, if it is around 85-90 deg C, then I wouldn't worry about it. Especiallly if it doesn't seem to go up and down when driving hard, or climbing hills

I wrote a proper bleed procedure somewhere on G35, just search my name.

Also get a radiator cap with temp control gauge on it, you can go check yourself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • HyperGear. Just get a high flow of the stocker. Good, reliable, and should bolt on. Yes it will want things like a retune once done, so you need to factor this in to your spend too.
    • Hi. Iam looking for some "cheaper" bolt on turbo on RB25DET NEO. I do not want "big" power just better reliability than the stock turbo which is "fot now" good but is old and i do not think it has "easy" life. One the Skyline here running some "temu" china Turbo but i dont trust those... Thanks!  
    • Hi guys, Making some space/cleaning up. A whole heap of random OEM R33 GTR parts and other random bits and bobs. I will update this thread as I go. Parts are located in Moorebank NSW 2170. Pickup preferred but will post at buyers expense. Prices are negotiable. If they don’t sell it will go in the bin. Item 1: BOV return pipe. $40 Item 2: RB26 cam gears. $20 Item 3: R33 GTR torque split, oil temp, boost centre gauge. $100 Item 4: RB26 fuel rail x 2. $20 each Item 5: RB26 Recirc valves. $50 Item 6: OEM upper front arms. $20 Item 7: Royal Purple Max Gear 75w-140 1 quart/946 ml x 5. $50 each or 5 for $200. Item 8: OS Giken 80w-250 diff oil 1 litre. $25 Item 9 Eibach springs. ers-11-140-60-0140. $100 https://www.streetfx.com.au/eib140-60-0060-eibach-ers-140mm-length-x-60mm-id-coil-over-spring?_ga_campaignid=22235933977&_ga_adgroupid=180146800292&_ga_keyword=&_ga_device=m&_ga_target=pla-295238231169&_ga_locint=&_ga_locphy=9071723&_ga_matchtype=&_ga_network=g&_ga_device=m&_ga_placement=&_gcl_id=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=22235933977&gbraid=0AAAAADPiTbo1xAuvnjIWWYnezivf-BUSY&gclid=CjwKCAjwlt7GBhAvEiwAKal0cvkVE_hstv24cDiaICsIk1oznH9zAoJf3By6vR3Tpe7jmByqM6JFHBoCZYAQAvD_BwE    
    • That's kind of what I was getting at saying you'd be here soon regarding length etc being able to add additional restriction.  My assumption (possible donkeys of you and mption) is that the length of hose to an oil cooler, and back, isn't going to be that huge of a loss. Typically you're talking about 1.5m of total length. And so far everyone in our world hasn't had issues with oil not being able to get to a cooler and back, it's more been, how the heck do we get the oil out of the head and back down to the bottom? I'd nearly hazard a guess the biggest issue people have with oil cooling and oil supply, is being able to get the heat out at the cooler itself (not enough air flow, too small of a cooler etc) Also, when people mount them wrong and make really awesome air traps so they've dramatically diminished the cooling capacity.
    • I will rebutt this and the preceding point from Dose....but without doing any calcs to demonstrate anything and without knowing that I am right or wrong. But... The flow capacity of a fluid transfer system is not limited by the smallest orifice or section of conduit in that system, unless it is drastically smaller than the rest of the system. OK, I use the word drastically perhaps with too much emphasis, but let's drill down on what I really mean. The flow capacity of the system is the result of the sum of the restrictions of the entire system. So, to make an extreme example, if you have a network with 3" pipe everywhere (and let's say a total length of only a few metres) and that 12mm ID restriction of the oil filter connection being the obvious restriction, then for any given amount of pressure available, the vast majority of all the pressure drop in the system is going to occur in the 12mm restriction. But.... increase the length of the 3" pipeline to, say 1000m, and suddenly the pipe pressure loss will likely add up to either be in the same order of magnitude, possibly even exceeding that of the 12mm restriction. Now the 12mm restriction starts to matter less. Translate this to the actual engine, actual oil cooler hose sizing, etc etc, and perhaps: The pressure loss caused by flowing through the narrow section (being the 12mm oil filter port, and perhaps any internal engine oil flow pathways associated with it) is a certain number. The pressure loss through, say, -12 hoses out to the cooler and back is negligible, but The pressure loss through -10 hoses out to the cooler, at the exact same length as the above, starts to become a decent fraction of the loss through the 12mm stuff at the filter port. Maybe even it starts to exceed it. I could actually do these calcs if I knew 1) how much oil was actually flowing in the line, 2) gave enough of a f**k to do things that I hate doing for work, voluntarily for a hypothetical discussion. Anyway - I reiterate. It's not the narrowest port that necessarily determines how much it can all flow. It is the sum. A long enough length of seemingly fat enough pipe can still cause more loss than a semmingly dominant small bore restriction.
×
×
  • Create New...