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wrecking Nissan skyline r33 gtst 1997 series 2

lots of parts available just ask cheers

motor rb25 det series 2 complete $1700 ( 166,000kms)

gearbox $1400

pedal kit $200

tail shaft $200

flywheel $80

diff lsd $300

cv joints $50 pair

king springs $150

hks coilovers $900

cannon cat back system $250

brake master cylinder $50

front calipers $250

front disks $100

front hubs $100

rear hubs complete $300

upper control arms each $30

lower control arms each $70

cross member $100

rear upper control arms each $25

rear lower control arms each $70

power steering rack $50

p/s bottle $20

Hicas $50

heater core $50

taillights $25 each

skyline tail light piece $40

power window reg $140 exchange

ignition barrel plus door locks $150

blinkers switch on dash $30

ac display $50

rear bar $100

rear bar reinforcement $50

boot $50 bare

boot shocks $50

doors $50 each

rear cut $600

beaver panel $100

fuel flap $10

fuel cap $10

battery holder $20

washer bottle $20

radiator overflow $20

glass from $40

fuel tank $50

fuel pump $50

door trims $250 each front and rear set

boot trims $100

interior light $20

seat belts (all 5 ) $100

dash $100

dash vent and surround $80

seats (front & back) $220

antenna $50

call me on 0426504272 car is in Liverpool area

can post anything you want as well

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this is what im looking for what price can you do

i can pickup

series 1 (manual)

boot/petrol flap release cable

ceiling carpet for (sunroof if available)

driver door widow switch

passenger door handle with windows control cutout

boot liner and carpet and timber

passenger side tail light, (black)

climate control panel

boot lock inc. badge

blinker/wiper control

dash gauge console

aerial inc. motor

please itemize list

hey buddy, im in sydney and after some parts:

- steering column cover

- all the plastic under steering wheel

- undertray engine plastic

some lowlife cun* motha*uck*rs try to steal my car only to figure out i've rewire all the ignition cable.

lemme know man.

thanks

  • 2 weeks later...

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    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
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