Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have a few assorted HID kits to get rid of, they are all brand new and still in the box.

H1 and H7 6000k Diamond White kits with Slim ballasts - $100

H1 8000k Iceberg Blue Kits with Slim ballasts - $100

H1 will suit R32-R33-R34-S14-S15)

(post-61312-0-28672700-1323054106_thumb.jpg

If you're unsure on what bulb type you need just send me an email and I will find out for you.

Any questions just ask.

Also, I live in Perth but I will post it to you at my expense.

Best way to contact me is via email: [email protected]

Cheers,

Jem

Edited by Jembo
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384911-hid-kits/
Share on other sites

Postage within Australia = Free

Installation is extremely straight forward, everything fits straight into your stock harness, no wiring is required, plug and play.

Yes it does come with instructions but I doubt you will need it, its that easy.

The only thing you have to be careful of is not touching the globe with your bare hands as grease/oil off your hands will cause the bulb to blow when it heats up, so use a rag/cloth when handling the globe.

If you are unsure of what bulb type you need, PM me the Year and model of your car and I'll let you know. (R32-R33-R34 are all H1 Globes).

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384911-hid-kits/#findComment-6143471
Share on other sites

Projectors are H3C AFAIK (I have R31 and R32 GT-R + GTS-t, all are H3C).

They take about a minute to fire up completely, how much light you get just after you turn it on depends on the quality of the ballasts and bulbs.

I have 4300K in my car, it's a tad blue (projector design, nothing to do with the Kelvin, I have 4300K in my R31 and it's white like OEM). 6000K will be pretty blue.

I think high beams are H3, or maybe H1, can't remember.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384911-hid-kits/#findComment-6144310
Share on other sites

$100 for Low beam lights only (I'm assuming you meant hi/lo beam not left side/right side).

To be honest I don't see the point in upgrading Hi beams to HIDs as you mainly drive around with your lo beams anyway.

and as the guys said earlier, If you want to 'flash' someone, or quick switch its not going to work as well because the bulbs need time to heat up.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384911-hid-kits/#findComment-6144770
Share on other sites

Oh my bad! Nah, i actually meant left/right, I wasn't thinking hi/lo sorry.

So it comes with both left/right low beam bulbs yeh??

I'm heading overseas soon, but i'll be back early next year. Think you'll still have some in stock for me til then? I want the 8000k iceberg blue ones.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/384911-hid-kits/#findComment-6150398
Share on other sites

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's actually encouraging to be honest. my motor was rebuild many years ago but it's probably done less than 30,000kms and fucc all limiter or drift, majority street / drag / roll racing. It'll be fine 💪🏼 I don't even have lines or a can for the cam breathers installed yet, there is zero oil residue or splatter on or around them, it drives beautifully so it seems healthy. Just a ticky lifter, yet they're almost brand new oem genuine Nissan and haven't done many kms at all...
    • Have you confirmed the throttle body goes to WOT (and stays there) during the run?
    • I'm having a problem. I think it was mentioned above somewhere but can't see it.  I'm stuck in the cycle of, sand, filler, low spot again, put filler, sand, low spot again, now i put filler again and a thicker portion which seems to have helped but I got low spots in other areas. In the image. Circled in red thats where the original low spot was and the shape is the same as the red out line. I've more or less fixed that (still low spot up the top but now I have low spots where the green circled part is.  Is likely the issue that I didn't start with a course sand paper? I sanded the filler with 240 to reduce the risk of not going to far but maybe the issue is that I'm only taking off enough material to remove some of the filler but not the high spots. I now started sanding with 120 and I think I'm seeing a difference. I did fix one dent the other 2 are f**ked and seems like I made another low spot which is indicated by the furthest green circle on the left handside. Any thoughts and solutions?   Also second image. All of these rock chips, can they be filled in with primer or do i need to fill them all with filler/putty? So many rock chips on mine lol.
    • Well, I had an Edward Lee's special edition odo windback car/motor with a RB25DET S2 and I put down 372kW with a good amount of track abuse for 1.5 years before the ring lands decided it didn't want to stick around anymore 🥲 But probably didn't help I kept on smashing try limiter on the track and a few skid pans.
    • That is correct,  I have a forged RB25/30det NEO hiding away safely and I wanted to use the very rare greddy vct adj cam gear on this new setup and so I just used the whole thing on my s1 instead of pulling it appear because I'm lazy af 😅🤌🏼
×
×
  • Create New...