Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

was driving home and the car stopped. lost power to the dash and windows and the engine wont crank over. fuses are ok, will check realys. but i still got power to interior lights and the electric boot and remote central locking still works. doesnt have an immobiliser fitted. can somebody please guide me in the right direction so i can start ripping shit out for testing. i just dont know where those wires would be

Edited by markdem
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/385313-lost-power-to-dashwindows/
Share on other sites

Damn, had this problem in my gtr today.

Dash went, and windows won't wind.

Car still runs.

Found a blown fuse.

Replaced and keeps blowing.

Thought you might offer some insight.

Congratulations on your fix.

Can anyone help with mine?

Extra symptom, when you replace the fuse, the torque split gauge goes straight up and over max.

im not familiar with 32 gtrs or atessa systems in general. is it possible that the torque split device is the cause? if not, theres really not much you can do besides making sure the wires are in good condition and start poking shit with a multimeter. sorry i cant be more of a help man. good luck

  • 5 weeks later...

Got the same problem on my mates 32 - no luck yet. It also has a torque split controller and only begun doing this after he climbed an embankment recently. Everything seems to be in tact have had it on the hoist and checked "everything".

Loses power to windows, rev tacho and the front torque gauge goes spastic to maximum

Happens when he goes over a bump. Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks

Got the same problem on my mates 32 - no luck yet. It also has a torque split controller and only begun doing this after he climbed an embankment recently. Everything seems to be in tact have had it on the hoist and checked "everything".

Loses power to windows, rev tacho and the front torque gauge goes spastic to maximum

Happens when he goes over a bump. Anyone got any ideas?

Thanks

id be double checking the wiring to the gearbox.

that is exactly what mine was doing.

recheck the connections at the back of the gearbox(reverse swith and transfer case wiring).

good luck mate.

id be double checking the wiring to the gearbox.

that is exactly what mine was doing.

recheck the connections at the back of the gearbox(reverse swith and transfer case wiring).

good luck mate.

thanks mate, checked all that seems to be a-ok - still no solution as of yet. might get him to check his battery terminals as its been relocated to theboot and may have come loose after the collision

thanks for your help

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
    • Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no? 
×
×
  • Create New...