Jump to content
SAU Community

Unusual Road Feel After Wheel Alignment

Oppression

By Oppression,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

Oppression Apprentice

Oppression

Posted
Posted

G'day SAU,

I had new rubber and a 4wheel alignment on my S2 Stagea over the weekend. Shortly after leaving the tyre shop I could feel a kind of mild bounce in the front end while driving in a straight line, RPM is stable and I have no miss etc so I'm pretty sure it has to be related to the front wheels? It is only bad at mild engine load (normal driving), feels almost like one of the front tyres is semi flat but on inspection they seem the same pressure, I'll stop in at the servo on the way home to make sure. I'll take it back to the tyre shop when I finish work today but thought you lads might be able to point me in the right direction.

Thanks

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

Brand new tyres so no flat spots? Decent brand?

All balanced?

Wheel nuts all properly tightened?

Tested your shocks? - push each side of your front down realy hard and let go - it should come up and stop dead. If it goes up and down again the shocks are stuffed.

  • 3 weeks later...
Oppression Apprentice

Oppression

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Anti-sway bar was pushed hard over to one side (about an inch or so off center) and if I pull the 4wd fuse the problem completely goes away... CV's Maybe?

Just strange the problem wasn't there before I got new rubber and an alignment but appeared 10mins after leaving the tyre shop.

And yea I know its prob not a good idea to drive round with the fuse pulled but not removing the front drive shaft, was only for diagnosis

Oppression Apprentice

Oppression

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I obviously suffer from some sort of mental retardation, It couldn't possibly be CV's due to the fact they are one of the components that will turn regardless weather or not they are being driven by the engine. Maybe transfer box, drive shaft maybe or one of those lil uni's, guess the drive shaft'll have to come off. Save that I'll have to have someone that knows what they are doing to have a look =`(

KiwiRS4T Grand Master

KiwiRS4T

Posted
Posted

If you don't want to pay to get the wheels rebalanced try swapping them front to back and see if that makes any difference. Have a good look to see if any balance weights have fallen off.

Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted

Did you get all 4 done or just the fronts? I've had just the fronts done in the past and had old fronts moved to the rear and it has caused this issue. The difference in rolling diameter between front and rear screws with the attessa system. If you did just get the fronts done swap front to rear and I'll almost gurantee it goes way. And yes it is that sensitive

Oppression Apprentice

Oppression

Posted
  • Author
Posted

You lads are the best, that was my problem all along, I only had the fronts done but the fitter must have mixed them up I spose 'coz I had asked for all 4 to be balanced, swapped 'em round and she drives perfect thanks very much.

Had a minor drama removing the rear passenger wheel as one of the nuts was cross threaded on the stud and I assume done up with an air gun as it sheared off while removing it (I didn't have a choice), all good old mate from Tyreright Yatala and I were up for a chat anyway after his poor after sales service.

Thanks again

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      I saw you mention this earlier and it raised a red flag, but I couldn't believe it was real. Yes, the vacuum signal should vary. It is the one and only load signal from the engine to the ECU, and it MUST vary. It is either not connected or is badly f**ked up in some way.
    • Murray_Calavera
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      @Haggerty you still haven't answered my question.  Many things you are saying do not make sense for someone who can tune, yet I would not expect someone who cannot tune to be playing with the things in the ECU that you are.  This process would be a lot quicker to figure out if we can remove user error from the equation. 
    • MBS206
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By MBS206 · Posted

      If as it's stalling, the fuel pressure rises, it's saying there's less vacuum in the intake manifold. This is pretty typical of an engine that is slowing down.   While typically is agree it sounds fuel related, it really sounds fuel/air mixture related. Since the whole system has been refurbished, including injectors, pump, etc, it's likely we've altered how well the system is delivering fuel. If someone before you has messed with the IACV because it needed fiddling with as the fuel system was dieing out, we need to readjust it back. Getting things back to factory spec everywhere, is what's going to help the entire system. So if it idles at 400rpm with no IACV, that needs raising. Getting factory air flow back to normal will help us get everything back in spec, and likely help chase down any other issues. Back on IACV, if the base idle (no IACV plugged in) is too far out, it's a lot harder for the ECU to control idle. The IACV duty cycle causes non linear variations in reality. When I've tuned the idle valves in the past, you need to keep it in a relatively narrow window on aftermarket ecus to stop them doing wild dances. It also means if your base idle is too low, the valve needs to open too much, and then the smallest % change ends up being a huge variation.
    • Haggerty
      RB25DE NEO with Haltech ECU

      By Haggerty · Posted

      I guess one thing that might be wrong is the manifold pressure.  It is a constant -5.9 and never moves even under 100% throttle and load.  I would expect it to atleast go to 0 correct?  It's doing this with the OEM MAP as well as the ECU vacuum sensor. When trying to tune the base map under load the crosshairs only climb vertically with RPM, but always in the -5.9 column.
    • CF.Panda
      R34 25GT Engine Light 21

      By CF.Panda · Posted

      AHHHH gotchaa, I'll do that once I am home again. I tried doing the harness with the multimeter but it seems the car needed a jump, there was no power when it was in the "ON" position. Not sure if I should use car battery jump starter or if its because the stuff that has been disconnect the car just does send power.
×
×
  • Create New...