Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

just throwing this out there because i'm not sure what to do.

Just before Christmas i was driving home from work and my water temp gauge started spiking above normal along with my oil temp gauge with went just over 100 degrees.

i thought maybe the coolant or oil had run a bit dry and it was around 7000 k's since i did the last service, so i serviced it again, new oil, filter and coolant. and all seemed fine again. except i just got home from my brothers place and it's happened again. the water temp stays good for a while as the oil temp slowly creeps higher and higher even just cruising at 80kph then when the oil temp gets just over 100 the water temp spikes....

Could this be a turbo problem maybe?

Any ideas, or possible things to check would appreciated.

Thanks.

Maybe, but i changed the thermostat just under a year ago. it seems whatever it is, is causing the oil temp to go up first..

It's probably worth mentioning that there is was a couple of little backfires from the exhaust while the car was warming up before i left the house.

maybe need to check the plugs...?

Your on the right track. Read this it may help Link

and yep wouldn't hurt to check your plugs too. Buy the cheaper copper ones :thumbsup:

In summary - Water/oil temps are related and should generaly be around 85 degrees for normal driving

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks guys, all sorted.

i put a bigger better radiator in and it's been fine since.

noticed a slight leak from the water pump too and installed a new one last week.

Now it's purring like a kitten again :D

I've got the same thing :(

But also my heater is being a bit funny, so I'm gonna try to blast out the coolant heater pipes that go through the firewall making sure there's no blockage in there. Then move onto a just jap radiator....

I've got the same thing :(

But also my heater is being a bit funny, so I'm gonna try to blast out the coolant heater pipes that go through the firewall making sure there's no blockage in there. Then move onto a just jap radiator....

Have a look at the NSW member's discount thread on radiators, they actually look pretty damn good man

I've got the same thing :(

But also my heater is being a bit funny, so I'm gonna try to blast out the coolant heater pipes that go through the firewall making sure there's no blockage in there. Then move onto a just jap radiator....

Have a look at the NSW member's discount thread on radiators, they actually look pretty damn good man

Good to hear its all back up and running.

How much did the radiator end up setting you back if you don't mind me asking?

I just went to Phillip radiator service and got a brand new GTR radiator (Core is twice the size of standard) and it was around $270.

i would have done a little shopping first but it was between Chrissy and new years so many places were closed and i needed to get it sorted quickly.

I've got the same thing :(

But also my heater is being a bit funny, so I'm gonna try to blast out the coolant heater pipes that go through the firewall making sure there's no blockage in there. Then move onto a just jap radiator....

Just out of curiousity Pat, what does your oil temp reach when driving normally (before you were having this prob)

It's just that mine is stable now but it settles in at around 92 degrees which is still slightly higher than i'd like it to be..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Some troubleshooting, connect up a timing light/gun with a proper ignition lead on coil 1. Hold the revs at 4~4500rpm and see if your timing is all over the shop, scattering off its tits. If so, there's a high chance your CAS is fked. But I read you have a Link ECU ready to go in, why not just skip all this and put that in - will make troubleshooting so much easier.  
    • Misfires when the car is fully warm are generally attributed to the coils (and/or the igniter, on cars with a separate igniter). They can stop working properly when they get hot for a number of reasons. Either electric/electronic, or from thermal expansion opening up gaps and allowing HV leakage. Seeing as you have replaced the coils, that could/should rule them out. But I wouldn't always assume so. Were the coils genuine? Or is there a chance you have bought some counterfeit Chinesium shit? Then we're back onto loom connections. They can fail when warm/hot for the same reasons. Inspections, cleaning of contact surfaces, ensuring that terminals are fully inserted, etc etc, are all justified. The same (heat effects) holds true for the other electrics and their connectors. AFM & CAS, primarily. If you try that Chinesium AFM, drive it around on low load until it is properly hot, but do'nt give it more load than you have to, except when you need to see if it will still miss. I'm dead serious about the untrustworthiness of the calibration of those copy AFMs. Injectors are unlikely to get hot unless the fuel is coming back around hot. You could try squirting them with compressed air or freeze spray to cool them back down to see if they are maybe the cause.
    • Alright, all the plugs looks good. Noticed that it starts to get bad when the car is up to temp, that's when things starts to misfire hard. next to do is Injector cleaning and such. Got in touch with a shop to do work on the injectors next Monday also help on diagnosis.
    • House of Fatz dry dock needs a clean sadly one of the long time stables is leaving this weekend   see ya mr purple
    • Hence why I've only modified my car into a pure daily. Everything has to remain reliable & roadworthy, while providing value and grin factor. It also must not be handcrafted to the extent that the car will be immovable if something breaks because you cannot get or make a replacement to at least limp around with.
×
×
  • Create New...