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R33 S1 Partout. Complete Engine Package Minus Turbo, Fmic, Tomei Bms, Interior, Doors, Headlight, Tail Lights, Exhaust, Mdu Coilovers & More


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finally got some pics up, post for any certain requests or if you need more specific pictures

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camber, toe and traction arms all included although not all pictured

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Cat back still for sale? You have pm.

sure is, all the items pictured above still available.

items sold / no longer available

clutch pedal , clutch master

passenger side headlight and quarter panel

dash surround

center console

driver side window switch, window motor and reg

lcas

rear hubs and brakes, front calipers

gearbox, tailshaft

radiator fan and shroud

brake master and booster

Edited by nik.

hey mate was just wondering how you came along with finding the blinker relay box cause im back and ready to pick it up

  • 1 month later...
  • 2 weeks later...

hey mate was just wondering how you came along with finding the blinker relay box cause im back and ready to pick it up

sorry i never updated, not sure which it was, i just let the body loom go with the shell in the end.

do you still have the drivers headlight and where are you located?

yea, still available. located in wollongong, nsw

just sent you a text for your dash. thankyou

i assume i sold the dash to you :)

also

HPI front mount kit SOLD

tomei BMC SOLD

engine possibly SOLD

exhaust SOLD

also have s1 maroon doors for sale, good condition, no dents. $80 each with windows! everything included except window motor and reg

passenger side window motor and reg, fully functional. $50

power mirrors both for $40

S1 door trims $30 each

MDU coilovers, no knocks/leaks $250, want these gone!

driver side front quarter, has a dent above very top of the arch, otherwise in good condition $60

straight S1 bonnet, no dents $60

heater core/ blower box/ ac compressor/ tail lights/ subframe/ diff/ rear seats/ monkey brace/ more parts still available.

SMS for pics!

contact via PM or 0416 129 811.

located in wollongong

Thanks,

Nik

Edited by nik.

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  • Latest Posts

    • Great work! Thanks for documenting the process.
    • How would you even adjust the clutch if the pedal already has the correct free play? The operating cylinder has no adjustment in mounting position or rod length. On pull style clutches there is also no ability to adjust the bearing carrier. Push type I can see how adjusting the carrier height makes it all work.   If this is the twin plate clutch did you verify that your friction disks were oriented correctly? It's not mentioned in the directions at all you just have to notice that one side the friction disks have a part number on the hub fingers and a subtle coning to those fingers. Another thing that I noticed was if you put the friction disks in backwards the pressure plate fingers will not be even and flat when the clutch is installed.
    • yeah, mechanically, it is probably do-able, off the top of my head, there would be the transfer case, which I believe will bolt up to the rear of the RWD transmission, the shorter rear tail shaft. A front drive shaft, front diff, engine upper sump, front drive shafts, front hubs and front AWD struts (they are shaped around the front drive shafts), LCAs (at the very least from the front suspension) oil cooler.  You might want the rear diff from an AWD too, so you can be certain the front and rear diff rations are identical.  Who knows what brackets and mounts you might need.  So a whole doner car might be the best option if you need to maintain RHD. Then actually making it work, that would be a whole different story.
    • Take the fall as a warning sign for future endeavours  Stay safe mate
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