Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok so once a conversion is done, Engine is fitted, brakes, suspension all made to match the power

What are other things that an be done, Or should be done

How much do Parts like drive shafts ect differ between models? Would it be worth getting a second hand GTR Front drive chain.

Also Who would do a detail of the car chassis and under body, Like an acid wash and coat of sealer under the body, A examine for rust spots, Changing Chassis bolts, After all all these bits and peices are 15 years old, Surely there would be snapped studs that are still holding the car together.

Do people worry about this sort of thing? Im not sure were to begin other then getting under a hoist and looking over it all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386768-other-upgrades-besides-the-usual/
Share on other sites

Its generally good practice to fix all problems with your car, this may be a present problem, or a developing issue. So if you or your mechanic warrant it as an issue that could do damage/harm down the track or the part is worn or unservicable, then fix it. As for a detail underbody, get an air degreasing gun and a pressure washer, make sure you relubricate anything that may need it after you are done, and dont go too nuts with the pressure washer, may cause more harm than good. I personally give the car a quick degrease underneath whenever i service it or whenever i am chasing an oil leak. Good practice to get into.

Cheers, Allan

Changing Chassis bolts, After all all these bits and peices are 15 years old, Surely there would be snapped studs that are still holding the car together.

Do people worry about this sort of thing? Im not sure were to begin other then getting under a hoist and looking over it all.

Unless they've been abused you shouldnt have any snapped studs, they're very durable. my skylines 25 years old now and has had every drivetrain part removed and reinstalled atleast a dozen times. the original gbox mount studs, engine mount studs and subframe mounts etc are all still original and working perfectly

Don't fix what ain't broke.

+2. half the time "fixing" what isnt broke for "peace of mind" makes it less reliable.

90% of the stock parts (from engines to boxes to diffs to axles etc) can handle a lot more abuse than most people would ever give them, until it becomes a problem/restriction just leave it as is.

I tend to agree, their are so many wearable items to constantly go through from bushes and rubber to seals and degradable items that the non serviceable bits should be on the bottom of the list unless broken. When was the last time EVERY bush and mount was replaced, if anything staying on top of these even pedantically will stop any damage to the static items

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...