Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so after some dramas, got it installed. At first the solenoid was setup wrong, and had some wiring issues... Still not 100% happy with the wiring, but it should be ok. And also some hassles with the boost gauge line (still want to check and see if another spot that wanted to attach it is a good or bad choice or not too...

But so at first when the solenoid was wrong, there was no boost limiting, but i had aimed to start low, so worked it out as soon as went above stock boost. Now that have the solenoid right, it boosts at stock levels. I then set each of the 6 memory slots with duty cycles 10, 20, 30, 40, 50, 60 (min is 10 max is 90, and read boost shouldnt increase until bout 20), yet at all 6 settings, i was still only getting stock boost. I have tested the solenoid worked, from both the solenoid end and the units wiring loom. Maybe i still have something setup wrong?

Advice, info, or ability to have a look at it all with me?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386821-gizzmo-ms-ibc/
Share on other sites

Hopefully someone here has set this up before, or at least knows how to...unfortunately I've only ever dealt with a bleed valve which is straight forward, otherwise my current boost control is with the ViPEC controlling the stock solenoid, which isn't even set up to do anything....so I'm no help :(

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386821-gizzmo-ms-ibc/#findComment-6169546
Share on other sites

Yeh hey Verms, may be good if you could take a bit of a look with me. Where bouts are you?

Be good to see if i have all the things hooked up to the right places under the hood and all...

This is the other response i put to a similar thread i put in the general section of the forum. I also put it here to see if someone could take a look over it with me. Cheers.

you do realize there is 2 settings that you have to adjust, duty and gain, from memory the first setting controls the boost level and the second controls how fast the controller lets it get there, the higher the second setting the more chance of spiking.

Yes know the settings, was told to set the duty with the gain on 0 then roll it up til it spikes then take it back 2-3 steps. However i have also tried with more duty, and decent level of gain. And nothing.

The solenoid appears to work as tested it with power at the solenoid and even did a blow pressure test to see that it changes ports. I also power tested it from the unit ends socket. And it clicks over still. I am pretty positive i have the pipes on the right ports, that the stock solenoid had already been removed from the car and that it is using the right lines from the manifold to the actuator.

The unit seems to be powered right as i can set it up, use the scramble button (to change through memories) and use it as a boost gauge (it seems to read 0.8psi higher than the good quality manual one i have still got installed also.

I spoke to Ray a little, but he seems a little more reluctant to help as i have a second hand unit that i was doing the install of rather than an autoelectrician or garage. I feel it is all installed right, but some one checking it over for me may be good as i may have done something simple wrong....

This is what Ray last told me "try cranking the duty up to 90 and if the boost doesn't rise hold power on the solenoid (whilst disconnected from the unit) and SLOWLY and CAREFULLY roll power on to see if the boost goes up. If not you'll have a mech fault", so next week will get a mate at work to help me make up a switch where can slowly wind in power into the solenoid from the unit end wire harness and see if that works so i know if the unit is not controlling the solenoid or if the solenoid just is not functioning.....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386821-gizzmo-ms-ibc/#findComment-6171725
Share on other sites

Ok, my mate who does a lot of work on circuits and electrical items opened it up and we did a bunch of tests with the unit and car and he believes a transistor is blown as only 0.26v goes out to the solenoid... which is why that was.not even enough to trigger a test light.

Aside from that the unit is functioning, it just isn't sending enough power ta make the solenoid work (works as a gauge and the negative signal pulses then cuts when the unit is turned on, or air is blown in to the boost pipe, but it only triggers a 0.26v power from the unit).

Edited by J'son
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386821-gizzmo-ms-ibc/#findComment-6178780
Share on other sites

For your car (RB25det) GT3076 Turbo with supporting kit internally gated, includes Nistune, piping, AFM, Bosch 750 Injectors, Blitz dual SBC and controller :thumbsup:

I don't think the R34 ECU will work with the R33 RB25DET engine (correct if wrong)....also if the injectors were to suit the RB25DET NEO they'll be top feed, whereas R33 RB25DET is side feed.

If the ECU works, all you'd need is an appropriate top-feed fuel rail....which even after buying would still make this package a stupidly good deal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386821-gizzmo-ms-ibc/#findComment-6181314
Share on other sites

Bit lost now lol.

What is the turbo and how much you want for it, it is bolt on and what can it handle to run?

I prob need better fuel injectors soon up, and a programable ect, since the mines one i have is limited....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386821-gizzmo-ms-ibc/#findComment-6186011
Share on other sites

I didn't know there was so much different. :blink: But then I've never owned a 33.

Praise the son of rajab :worship:

:P

Some of us aren't as fortunate and have to settle with 32s or autos. It's ok, you'll live. cheers.gif

Bit lost now lol.

What is the turbo and how much you want for it, it is bolt on and what can it handle to run?

I prob need better fuel injectors soon up, and a programable ect, since the mines one i have is limited....

The turbo is a Garrett GT3076r, internally gated. I'm not sure on the housing sizes, though I think the rear will likely be 0.82 and front isn't really relevant for the power. On around 18-20psi this turbo should make about 300rwkw. Turbo would be capable of somewhere around 350rwkw if you were pushing it hard on E85.

You will definitely need an upgraded ECU and injectors for almost any reasonable power gains. Standard injectors run out of flow around the 230rwkw mark. For an R33's RB25DET, you will need to use side-feed injectors to avoid having to replace the fuel rail with an aftermarket item.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/386821-gizzmo-ms-ibc/#findComment-6186040
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Latest Posts

    • I know why it happened and I’m embarrassed to say but I was testing the polarity of one of the led bulb to see which side was positive with a 12v battery and that’s when it decided to fry hoping I didn’t damage anything else
    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
×
×
  • Create New...