Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

just go to your local exhaust shop and ask them what extractors they can get.

oh and FYI, extractors won't do much for fuel economy. in a lot of cases they will do bugger all, or make it worse. they generally only make a difference to power at the higher end of the rev range, at the expense of a bit of low end.

it may be worth looking at other, cheaper things to try and improve fuel economy. check your o2 sensor, clean your AFM, take note of how long the car takes to warm up (if it takes more than 5 mins or a few kms of driving to warm up, or doesn't warm up to the middle of the gauge, then the thermostat is shot and replacing it will improve your economy) and most importantly, examine your driving style. if you floor it everytime you take off then you aren't helping the situation.

it's also worth pointing out that spending a few hundred dollars to TRY and get better economy is somewhat counter productive. lets say for example that you spend $300 on extractors and it only gives you a 10% increase in economy (which is a reasonable figure), you will only save $3 a week, so it will take you nearly 2 years before you have saved enough to pay for the extractors. what sort of economy are you getting?

ive cleaned both, run a high flow filter and cold air intake,, and 5w 30 oil, thinest that is practical to run, drive it like a granny, and im not nesacerally after the money back id just like to make the lack of power more liveable and keep the same economy if not improve it, after all number to is crushed to allow number three to run on the standard manifold, and i was more after recomendations for brands, sorry for not clarifying

most major brands are all reasonable quality. if you talk to enough people you will hear that every brand is crap, and that every brand is great. you are actually best looking on a lancer forum and seeing what they recommend. what brand works well on one car might not work as another brand on another car, so any advice you get from what works well on a skyline might not be true for on a lancer.

i've used genie and pacemaker headers with no issues in the past.

i should also note that there are certain cars where aftermarket headers make next to no difference in power. v6 magnas are a great example of this. the reason being that the cams are a bigger restriction than the headers. so gains will be minimal. having said that, on something like a SSS pulsar they make a big difference. also i've driven a lancer and they aren't that bad of a car power wise. maybe yours has a bigger issue, such as low compression or a dodgy fuel pump or clogged injectors (which a bottle of injector cleaner won't fix), or possibly even a blocked cat. not trying to talk you out of getting headers, just don't want you to be let down by the possible lack of gains if there is something else going on.

i have been tossing up those options of dirty/blocked parts, as it was driven extremely sedately when my mother owned it and runs better when it gets a bit of a rev or run injector cleaner through it, how would i go about cleaning these items

i should also note that there are certain cars where aftermarket headers make next to no difference in power. v6 magnas are a great example of this. the reason being that the cams are a bigger restriction than the headers. so gains will be minimal. .

At the risk of derailing this thread, and admitting that I was once a Magna tragic, I have to ask whether you tried the muffler upgrade? At the time I had my TH, the word on the street was that the rear muffler was a fairly m,ajor source of restriction, and replacing it with a bigger (not necessarily a ricey fart cannon) made a reasonable difference (around 10-12kW IIRC in the 3.5 TH). Never ended up changing mine (couldn't see the sense in hotting up a Magna) but there seemed to be a few people claiming it made a reasonable difference. Interesting to hear about the extractors though. At the time I got mine (early 2000) there weren't any off the shelf units, and my exhaust guy offered to make a set of stainless extractors for $500. Again, I couldn't justify spoending those $$ on the boat.

Normal programming will resume now.

Possibly - as Marc said it comes down to each car's areas of weakness. In the case of the Magna, the rear muffler was quite restrictive to keep them quiet (at the time they were reknowned for very low NVH levels compared to other cars in the class). If you're going for a less restrictive muffler, then larger volume tends to help keep the noise down while still flowing OK. Juet be careful you don't end up with something droney. Talk to the Lancer guys to find out what results others have had (just be prepared to wade through the stories of how a canon and shiny 4" exhaust turned a stock lancer into a GTR killah)

At any rate, I think on a 1.8 lancer, any exhaust changes will only have a marginal effect, and the benefits (if any) will most likely only be there at higher revs (ie peak power where flow will be highest), not for normaly day to day driving.

What do you fill up with? And what kind of economy are we talking about here? Auto or manual?

I have a daily Mazda 323, it's a 1.8. Manual. Filled up last night, and calculated 6.7 litres per 100 km. that's comuting, but being holidays traffic isn't bad. I use 95 at the pump, and have increased the static timing to compensate, to the point where I don't have pre det. I also removed the centre muffler, not cause full hectic, but cause it was forever leaking. Made nil difference in econ.

Also noticed you live in tassie. Roads can be pretty mountainous round those parts, so factor that into your economy. Other things that come to mind, do you do lost of short trips? That increases fuel use. Check your idle is within manufacturers stds, adjust if needed. Other than that, what Marc said about afm and O2 sensor.

At the risk of derailing this thread, and admitting that I was once a Magna tragic, I have to ask whether you tried the muffler upgrade? At the time I had my TH, the word on the street was that the rear muffler was a fairly m,ajor source of restriction, and replacing it with a bigger (not necessarily a ricey fart cannon) made a reasonable difference (around 10-12kW IIRC in the 3.5 TH). Never ended up changing mine (couldn't see the sense in hotting up a Magna) but there seemed to be a few people claiming it made a reasonable difference. Interesting to hear about the extractors though. At the time I got mine (early 2000) there weren't any off the shelf units, and my exhaust guy offered to make a set of stainless extractors for $500. Again, I couldn't justify spoending those $$ on the boat.

Normal programming will resume now.

yeah i did. mine was also a TH and i put a lukey rear muffler on and it made a difference. then i put a redback mid section on and it made a difference too. extractors did bugger all though. and yeah, up to around 10kw is pretty much spot on.

on average on good 91 i'll get 7-8ish per hundred, 6.5 if i get a really good batch of fuel, its manual, and its i have been tossing up that the timings out cause it does run a little rich, i've checked plug gap etc so

that is pretty darn good economy. you won't get much better than that. the best i've ever gotten out of the missus SSS is 6.5L/100kms on the highway (generally around the 7 to 8L/100kms on the highway. round town i generally get 10 to 11L/100kms out of it (and about 14L/100kms out of my vt wagon around town and 9L/100kms on the highway), but that is a lot of short trips (so car runs on cold start enrichment most of the time) and stop/start driving, so poor economy is to be expected.

if you do extractors then you would want to do a cat back exhaust to make the most of it. the power gains from doing this would be in the range of 5 to 10kw, but that will be more at the top end of the rev range. the low to mid range won't increase much, or may even drop a little bit in the lower rev range.

it really does sound like you have unrealistic expectations from a 4 cylinder car though. as i said in an earlier post, i've driven a 1.8L lancer and they aren't bad to drive as far as power goes. sure the don't have the low down pull of a larger motor, but they are far from lacking (unless there is a mechanical issue, but from your fuel economy i don't think there is). any mods you do to increase power will only gain you about 10% more power, most of it at the higher end of the rev range. so not really the sort of change that it sounds like you are after. about the only thing that would give you the sort of low to mid range power gains is bolting a turbo to it.

I have never heard of anyone going backwards with extractors, unless you were to fit ones that didnt suit the particular motor (i,e overly large primaries etc). might not give a huge increase in power but should make the motor considerably more efficient.

Pacemaker do a 4 into 1 set for about 400 bucks.

OP: stop thrashing the shit out of it!

BTW the thought of modding a Magna is laughable. Worst aussie family car i've driven, i'd rather get around in a VN!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I do believe from context he is talking about a S0/S1 R33 RB25 with associated ECU and Wiring for that, and a manual gearbox into a R34 N/A Auto. I don't have the knowledge of all the pinouts and such but my gut feeling from doing my own conversion is to use as much of the R33 stuff that you can. The "car" wiring is quite seperate from the "Engine" wiring when all things are considered. The only things to truly consider 99% of the time is the cluster, reverse lights and potentially disabling the 'not in P/N' immobilizer circuit.
    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
×
×
  • Create New...