Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I desperately need some help.

I have a problem with my drivers seat, the seat is quite loose and I believe the seat rails have either broken away from the car or the seat itself.

I am trying to track down a solution to this problem . I have located a replacement drivers seat however the seat is a cloth sided one while mine is leather sided. Soo...

If this is my only option could I swap the rails over from the new seat to my old one?

If the first doesn't work are the coupe / sedan seats and rails interchangeable ?

Any advice would be appreciated.

BTW I have a V35 350GT8 sedan premium edition

And live in NSW just north of Sydney .

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387294-need-advice-on-v35-drivers-seat/
Share on other sites

^^ I had contemplated this however my mechanic is pretty sure from looking at it in the car it is a problem with the rails , however advised me to source a new seat or rails first because he feels if we take it out of the car we could well and truly stuff the rails and I will not have a car to drive then.

on my coupe the height adgustment rod snapped, i just got it welded. the seat comes out real easy, just 4 bolts, and a few clip plugs, you can get it out in 5 mins, take it out and have a look for a break.

on my coupe the height adgustment rod snapped, i just got it welded. the seat comes out real easy, just 4 bolts, and a few clip plugs, you can get it out in 5 mins, take it out and have a look for a break.

This sounds like this may be the case as my seat rocks back and forth , all the electrics still work but whatever position you put the seat in it rocks

if your going to take the seat out make sure you disconnect the battery as i recall there being an issue with the airbag light coming on and staying on once the wires are unplugged.

should be some forum topics on G35 driver about it.

Check out this link of removing the front seats

http://g35nyc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=27865

Edited by mellowman
  • 10 years later...

I found this thread today while looking for solutions to my "electric seat switches on passenger side do not work anymore", and when I did a google search I found a video that was uploaded literally 10 minutes ago and it's exactly what you were looking for, just 10 years late, hope it helps!
 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
×
×
  • Create New...