Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i recently got into a car accident and was uninsured at the time. The guy i hit said he went to a few smash repairs and said the quote to fix the damage was roughly 5.5k, i am no panel beater but i think is overpriced. i have uploaded pictures of the damage but the pictures arnt that good of a quality because they were taken on my phone,to sum it off the extend of the damage looks to be the rear bumper and the reinforcment bar was scraped but not pushed in. Can someone tell me if i am being roughted

thanks for the help

post-87166-0-13911500-1325963655_thumb.jpg

post-87166-0-56112500-1325963691_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387511-urgent-need-advice/
Share on other sites

If its just a rear bumper bar, then to the extent of the damage described, their ripping you off. whole resprays can be done for 10 grand.

To get it done should be a lot cheaper, (around the thousandish dollar mark)

go get some quotes from some quality workshops, and see what they give u as an estimate, as shopping around is your best option. (if you bring all of the replacement parts/source them yourself, they may even drop the price further)

also if push comes to shove, look for another bumper at a wreckers, this could save you a few $$$ plus bumpers are not overly hard to change over.

Just my 2c of what i know from the industry, hope it helps

:cheers: Aaron.

I would say it may be slightly on higher side but then again I haven't see the car in person and aren't in the industry. I got a light tap in the rear of my R33 GTST and it ended up being approx $3.5K. It pushed in the rear metal plate in the boot and some other things causing it to not line up. The Friday arvo that it happened I almost thought it would buff out however once I started to have a look with the panel beater the damage started to show. The V35's might be stronger in the rear than the R33?

It looks to be a fibreglass rear bar as plastic ones don't tear like that. So, you have to replace the rear bar to start with which may need to come form overseas? The reo bar needs to be fixed if damage or possibly replaced. It may have pushed some of the structure that it bolts to. The panel shop then needs to make the bar fit the car properly as a lot of the time they won't line up with the car. That can take time which equals cost. To paint a rear bar I'd expect $400-500.

Just remember that you cannot always see the damage until some trim is taken off and you can get a good look at things.

I'm not just directing this at you but anyone who reads this.. For the sake of everyone on the road (you included) please get some insurance!!!! I would be so fn angry if I was the one you hit. Imagine if you hit something like a BMW 5 series you could be in a world of hurt, more to the point the poor owner of it would.

I would say it may be slightly on higher side but then again I haven't see the car in person and aren't in the industry. I got a light tap in the rear of my R33 GTST and it ended up being approx $3.5K. It pushed in the rear metal plate in the boot and some other things causing it to not line up. The Friday arvo that it happened I almost thought it would buff out however once I started to have a look with the panel beater the damage started to show. The V35's might be stronger in the rear than the R33?

It looks to be a fibreglass rear bar as plastic ones don't tear like that. So, you have to replace the rear bar to start with which may need to come form overseas? The reo bar needs to be fixed if damage or possibly replaced. It may have pushed some of the structure that it bolts to. The panel shop then needs to make the bar fit the car properly as a lot of the time they won't line up with the car. That can take time which equals cost. To paint a rear bar I'd expect $400-500.

Just remember that you cannot always see the damage until some trim is taken off and you can get a good look at things.

I'm not just directing this at you but anyone who reads this.. For the sake of everyone on the road (you included) please get some insurance!!!! I would be so fn angry if I was the one you hit. Imagine if you hit something like a BMW 5 series you could be in a world of hurt, more to the point the poor owner of it would.

only if they didn't have insurance, which is highly unlikely

as for the damage, it looks like there could be close to that sort of amount of damage. as people have said, it isn't just the bar, but the reo bar, that black grill thing in the bar probably has broken clips and i wouldn't be suprised if the exhaust is bent too. there is also the chance that the reversing sensor wiring is damaged.

Well what happened was he told me the day after the accident it would cost roughly there i asked what they were fixing all he told me was rear reo, rear bar, clips and for them to rematch the colour. Fair enough i told him to go thru insurance as it was to much for me to pay in a lump sum, about a week later he told me he had no insurance so i needed to pay cash so i found it abit sus because on the day of the accident he asked if i wanted to fix it privately or handle it with his insurance

Before handing over any money, arrange for the car to be taken to a pannel beater of your choice as well.

3k for a rear bar seems steep, but then again, I have gotten prices from Nissan Australia before and they weren't cheap

35's are getting to be nearly 10 years old, there should be a few rear bars going at wreckers by now.

Edited by PWND

Its an aftermarket bar so will nissan still know the price?

In that case no. You would have to find out what brand it is and get a price

3k seems like a bit of money for a rear bar. Might include the price of a rear reo as well, but still seems a lot.

As I said, arrange for him to take the car to a pannel beater of your choice and get a quote

Remove/Refit:

R/bar = $55

splash shields = $25

T/lamps = $20

boot trims = $45

r/bar reinforcement = $25

Total:$170

Repairs:

Beaver/Rh Drop panel = $180

Reinforcement = $120

Total:$300

Paint:

R/bar = $180

Reinforcement = $90

Beaver/Rh drop panel = $110

mix/match = $25

Oven Allowance = $75

Total:$480

So labour all up your looking at about $950 mark plus whatever parts you may need....IMO i think you're getting ripped

I'm a motor assessor and these are the figures i'd allow from quotes (this is just going by what i can see in the pics)

Hope that helps :D

Remove/Refit:

R/bar = $55

splash shields = $25

T/lamps = $20

boot trims = $45

r/bar reinforcement = $25

Total:$170

Repairs:

Beaver/Rh Drop panel = $180

Reinforcement = $120

Total:$300

Paint:

R/bar = $180

Reinforcement = $90

Beaver/Rh drop panel = $110

mix/match = $25

Oven Allowance = $75

Total:$480

So labour all up your looking at about $950 mark plus whatever parts you may need....IMO i think you're getting ripped

I'm a motor assessor and these are the figures i'd allow from quotes (this is just going by what i can see in the pics)

Hope that helps :D

Tis good to have you along... :thumbsup:

sorry to bump this up, but do not under any circumstance just go off his quote. he could have just gone to a friend and had him quote you a fairytale.

if you are paying out of your own pocket, if he wants to see the money, you both have to agree on a repairer.

otherwise, let him take you to court. ensure you communicate to him in writing that you would like the car inspected at an agreed smash repairer, and you should have no issues.

The court is not going to award the one quote he got from a smash repairer he selected himself.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...