Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Been moochin' round here for about a year, but now I've got a few noob questions for you all.

I just bought a set of wheels second hand off a fellow SAUer and one of them has got a nice bit off rash on the lip.

Aint no ointment gonna fix it!! :rolleyes:

They're not on my car yet and I am willing to just put them on, ignore it for a while and just drive baby, but I wouldn't mind getting it fixed eventually and maybe even getting them refinished too.

They are apparently 2 piece rims which have a goldish centre and a chrome rim but I don't think they can be separated.

1) Can they be rechromed on the rim alone and the centre painted?

2) Where is the best place to fix my rash and perhaps finish them off?

3) How much might I be paying for these procedures?

I did an ACT search and found this link :

http://www.skylinesa..._1#entry6124222

Wicked Wheels any good? Jax in Fyshwick?

Is RS4-S the man to talk to?

Any Help would be much appreciated.

Thanking you in advance.

Rob.

Edited by Not a Pulsar
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387678-got-a-rash/
Share on other sites

Hey mate, just double check they are a true 2/3 piece rim first. Then check if the dish section is chrome (doubt it if they are real 2 piece), stainless or polished alloy. Alloy would be the easiest to repair IMO.

My boss used to part own 'the wheel factory' and when they closed they still did alot of wheel repairs outta jax fyshwick. He has since sold most of the equipment and only has a large lathe left for en-larging centre bore holes.

Wicked wheels I have seen repair a BMW alloy in the flesh, had a deep section of gutter rash which was filled with a special bog/filler, filed back and the whole rim resprayed, all in the back of a van. Have heard good and bad but that's the same with any business

There is also I newish bloke called MAG! Wheel repairs, he welds cracked rims and flat spots, not sure what else he does or if he can help u out, his in fyshwick.

If you pull apart the rims any panel shop can blast and spray your centres.

Most wheel repairs are expensive and cost as much as the cost of a new rim, if the wheels are no longer available or are custom made then that's when u need these peoples services. Maybe if it's just the one with rash it might be worth looking for a 5th wheel. Maybe check eBay or post a pic with brand, size, width, offset , pcd etc and I can see if they are still available?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/387678-got-a-rash/#findComment-6181270
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...