Jump to content
SAU Community

Tomei Cams On A R33 Gtst

AngryRB

By AngryRB,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
Posted

Okay, ive searched and found different answers, and youtube video's shows different too

can someone with tomei cams the 256degree 8.5lift tell me what they are like, im talking idle and just general upto 3000rpm driving, is it a pig that idles crap??

so far i see they are good after 4000rpm , but i just need to know that the off boost low rev driving isnt really bad, cause thats where most of my driving is..

FYI, this will be for a gtx3076 , 18psi , external gate blah blah blah...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388337-tomei-cams-on-a-r33-gtst/
Share on other sites
AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

they idle almost like stock. youll be fine

ive got a very similar set up

what do you think to this utube segment?

is that close to the idle? i know its 270degrees 8.5lift

ive enjoyed reading your thread, sounds like an awesome result , i hope it makes you shake at the knees a bit, thats what im after with mine, 300rwkw with an adrenaline rush, respect!!

Edited by SliverS2
boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Yeah there pretty similar sound to stock maybe a tad bit more rough and sound abit more like a rb26 up higher revs more deeper note. They are fine to drive off boost it wont feel like a pig but yeah main gains will be through midrange and a little bit up top.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Yeah there pretty similar sound to stock maybe a tad bit more rough and sound abit more like a rb26 up higher revs more deeper note. They are fine to drive off boost it wont feel like a pig but yeah main gains will be through midrange and a little bit up top.

ah cool, thanks for that reply, i dont mind a tad rough idle, just wanted to make sure it would have mostly normal response off boost, my decision is almost made now,

do you think it needs cam gears as well , its says on website that is already pre dialled, should i buy cam gear as well ? and if so , just exhaust or intake too?

any advice is appreciated.

cheers

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

Well definately dont need intake camgear as your retaining vct, I put an exhuast cam gear on mine but my tuner found it made gains on the stock setting so didnt end up changing the position so I didnt end up needing it.

Harey Veteran

Harey

Posted
Posted

From what I have heard very little change to idle, very little loss of low down power but a lot more midrange and some more top end. Most results I have seen are around ~20rwkw peak power but more in the midrange.

How much does it cost to get someone to fit them?

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

From what I have heard very little change to idle, very little loss of low down power but a lot more midrange and some more top end. Most results I have seen are around ~20rwkw peak power but more in the midrange.

How much does it cost to get someone to fit them?

sounds like a win win modification then, im keen to fit them myself , just have to find some DIY articles and maybe a gregories manual ,

cant be too much different to fitting a normal cam on an RB30?

boostn0199 Grand Master

boostn0199

Posted
Posted

sounds like a win win modification then, im keen to fit them myself , just have to find some DIY articles and maybe a gregories manual ,

cant be too much different to fitting a normal cam on an RB30?

There not that hard to install pretty easy providing your confortable with doing a timing belt you should have no problem. Just follow the workshop manual it has a pretty good step by step only thing I would recoment you do is rotate the crank a few degress backwards from TDC when removing and installing cams then align cam gears followed by crank also would be a good idea to upgrade the valve springs and replace valve seals if your changing cams.

AngryRB Grand Master

AngryRB

Posted
  • Author
Posted

There not that hard to install pretty easy providing your confortable with doing a timing belt you should have no problem. Just follow the workshop manual it has a pretty good step by step only thing I would recoment you do is rotate the crank a few degress backwards from TDC when removing and installing cams then align cam gears followed by crank also would be a good idea to upgrade the valve springs and replace valve seals if your changing cams.

thanks ill do that, dont really want to take the head off to do springs and seals though, sounds like a big job

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • brillo
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By brillo · Posted

      Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      PXL_20250828_063541093.TS.mp4
    • Gantai
      R33 GTST Steering Rack (49001-19U05) Rebuild?

      By Gantai · Posted

      Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • PranK
      R35 GT-R production ends after 18 years

      By PranK · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...