Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 94
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

They are sitting in a box about to go in in a few weeks, will report in my worklog when I get it tuned, could be a while as it has to pass a defect inspection and still needs some parts.

Bought them mainly because they are bolt/plug in and are the same colour as stock, also I have not heard anything bad until GT piped up.

Edited by Rolls

:cheers:

see another thing I dont understand is why, if these are made from new stock would they not go to the extra little effort to make a few more holes in the nozzle if it is so improtant for atomization and all..

I was looking at a set of 550s the other day, I thought were nismos 555s but they had a 10 hole spray nozzle where Nismos only have 4..I think they were subaroo injectors or somethign

Now this should make car run/idle great smooth and economical, but would the improved atomization be enough to compensate a lack of fuel should I hit 500hp..

I guess I could bump up rail pressure but............:unsure:

they were the same price as nismos anyway

:cheers:

see another thing I dont understand is why, if these are made from new stock would they not go to the extra little effort to make a few more holes in the nozzle if it is so improtant for atomization and all..

I imagine making extra equal sized holes would be quite difficult to reliably do all the same size etc. Would probably mean a higher percentage don't pass their quality control. That or it may not even be possible for them to drill extra holes due to the material etc.

HHmmm, I may be wrong, And please let me know Guilt Toy and I will keep my mouth shut and retreat back to my corner, but I think everyone is missing the big picture.

Now im no expert, but this is what I do know about injectors.

No 2 injectors are the same, Even out of the same batch, out of brand new boxes there are always slight variations. These may be flow rates at certain pulse widths or voltages or pressures.

It may be one injector operates correctly at 1.123 ms where another needs 1.204 to deliver a good spray pattern at idle. Now any good tuner will have a bench tester to check these things before they go any where near your car. Even brand new injectors need to be tested, I have literally tested thousands and have sent many back because of poor or inconsistent flow rates or poor injector latency.

Now...... If an injector dies, fails completely is that bad? No its an unfortunate event.... if there is no bang in the cylinder, there is no heat. If there is no heat then its not lean and nothing melts.

However, what If an Injector at 6500 rpm, at 75psi at 12.6ms flows 10% less than his 5 friends?

Now, if you are tuning with individual cylinder temps/AFR's then this will become very apparent, and something can be dome about it........ but what if you not?

Actually, this is a little test for all you budding tuners out there. Next time you are road mapping your Power FC, Jump on the brakes, get your engine up too a few pound of boost, watch your AFR's then pull 10% out of one cylinder....... and what what happens too your AFR's......... They will go from 13.2:1 to probably around 13.3:1.

Now if this is the case, then at full noise who is too say that your "safe" mixtures of 11.8:1 are not

1 - 10.5:1

2 - 13.3:1

3 - 11.5:1

4 - 10.1:1

5 - 11.7:1

6 - 12.8:1

Hands up who knows what cylinder is going to die first? You guessed it..... old mate number 2, but your mixtures where 11.8:1 they where safe.

The thing here is not always to go for the best cheapest quality you can find, they are the ones that haven't been tested, that don't get put into specific batches so they are as similar as they can be.

For the sake of even an extra $350 it may save you an engine just to know that they are right. And even then get them tested any way.

I haven't even touched on the spray pattern quality and its effects on flame propagation and heat dissipation yet. That's for another day.

Gasket leaks can also cause similar symptoms, I had a bad air leak on cyl 3 and 4, luckily my tune was super rich at ~10.5:1 so it wouldn't have been more than ~12.5:1 on the other cylinders.

But yeah, good advice, and also why I believe the deatchwerks to be a good injector because they already come with a complete bench flow test report for each cylinder. Though because I am super anal I am considering getting them bench tested locally as well, might be some useful information for this thread anyway.

Anyone recommend flow testing in Adelaide?

HHmmm, I may be wrong, And please let me know Guilt Toy and I will keep my mouth shut and retreat back to my corner, but I think everyone is missing the big picture.

Now im no expert, but this is what I do know about injectors.

.....

Lies you are an expert thumbsup.gif

HHmmm, I may be wrong, And please let me know Guilt Toy and I will keep my mouth shut and retreat back to my corner, but I think everyone is missing the big picture.

Now im no expert, but this is what I do know about injectors.

No 2 injectors are the same, Even out of the same batch, out of brand new boxes there are always slight variations. These may be flow rates at certain pulse widths or voltages or pressures.

It may be one injector operates correctly at 1.123 ms where another needs 1.204 to deliver a good spray pattern at idle. Now any good tuner will have a bench tester to check these things before they go any where near your car. Even brand new injectors need to be tested, I have literally tested thousands and have sent many back because of poor or inconsistent flow rates or poor injector latency.

Now...... If an injector dies, fails completely is that bad? No its an unfortunate event.... if there is no bang in the cylinder, there is no heat. If there is no heat then its not lean and nothing melts.

However, what If an Injector at 6500 rpm, at 75psi at 12.6ms flows 10% less than his 5 friends?

Now, if you are tuning with individual cylinder temps/AFR's then this will become very apparent, and something can be dome about it........ but what if you not?

Actually, this is a little test for all you budding tuners out there. Next time you are road mapping your Power FC, Jump on the brakes, get your engine up too a few pound of boost, watch your AFR's then pull 10% out of one cylinder....... and what what happens too your AFR's......... They will go from 13.2:1 to probably around 13.3:1.

Now if this is the case, then at full noise who is too say that your "safe" mixtures of 11.8:1 are not

1 - 10.5:1

2 - 13.3:1

3 - 11.5:1

4 - 10.1:1

5 - 11.7:1

6 - 12.8:1

Hands up who knows what cylinder is going to die first? You guessed it..... old mate number 2, but your mixtures where 11.8:1 they where safe.

The thing here is not always to go for the best cheapest quality you can find, they are the ones that haven't been tested, that don't get put into specific batches so they are as similar as they can be.

For the sake of even an extra $350 it may save you an engine just to know that they are right. And even then get them tested any way.

I haven't even touched on the spray pattern quality and its effects on flame propagation and heat dissipation yet. That's for another day.

even after this post he is not going to change his mind. "people" need to learn the hard way. (including myself, been there done that)

I just have one thing to say, the injectors should be of the highest quality as possible.

great post Hyped6

even after this post he is not going to change his mind. "people" need to learn the hard way. (including myself, been there done that)

I just have one thing to say, the injectors should be of the highest quality as possible.

great post Hyped6

So why are DW bad then?

even after this post he is not going to change his mind. "people" need to learn the hard way. (including myself, been there done that)

I just have one thing to say, the injectors should be of the highest quality as possible.

great post Hyped6

:ermm: ouch...

You are right though, its the old "you can lead a horse to water but you cant make him drink" syndrome that I suffer from frequently..

BUT...truth is I was still sitting on the fence about the whole thing and when I read Hyped post this morning and it actually made the difference and I fell off the fence.

Also with postage (which I miscalculated) the DWs werent working out as cheap as I had hoped either..Plus there is the hassle of buying form overseas etc..

So because its my last purchase on this build and as you say one of the most important, a couple of hundred extra now after all I have spent should be the least of my worries..

I rang my injector guy to see what else he could offer and now have some special planned just for you...;)

Its a little over the top, but the price is right and the equipment is good so...Stay tuned!!

:thanks:

I didn't get charged for postage, they billed me for the injectors and sent an invoice for shipping but never charged me for it. Took 1 week to get here.

If the DW have the same spray pattern/nozzle, they come with injector flow tests and lets just assume that a local flow test also matches this then what is the issue?

They bolt in and look stock which no others do and they have the same spray pattern etc, if they flow identically then it seems they have two pros, cheaper, look stock over everything else and no cons?

I am really quite confused where you are coming from GT. How does the quality differ from bosch etc? What evidence do we have that there is any difference what so ever?

Edited by Rolls

So of the 10 people I counted using these injectors in this thread, 10 are very happy with them and have no issues...

So 100% positive feedback from people who use and own them? Interesting

Edited by SimonR32

^^lol..

JFTR, my change of mind wasnt due entirely to doubts on the DWs, though I did hear "made in china", but what isn't these days

I Would still like to see some proof they are no good as well..

I just had other ideas that prevailed eventually... :thumbsup:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update 2: Today I'm f**king pissed. Some of you probably saw my thread that I opened shortly after joining this forum, "urgently need expert/experienced opinion", in which I discussed the possibility of a porous RB26 engine block which I also found hard to believe. Currently both turbos are out since the shitty braided line that was installed by whoever fitted the GT28 turbos leaked oil onto the exhaust. Today while working on the cam covers to put new gaskets and half moons in, I cleaned the side of the engine block with brake cleaner. Some time later I saw that it was still glistening with oil or coolant so I dried that off. But it was wet again shortly after. Verdict: I'm royally screwed. What you can see here (hopefully, despite shit resolution), circled in red, is a crack above the turbo oil feed. Extent is a few cm long and basically goes from #3 cylinder wall to #4 cylinder wall. It slowly lets coolant through, even without any pressure behind it. I am absolutely dumbfounded as to how this crack even formed, especially since it isn't along the cylinder as it usually is but rather a horizontal crack. Probably a few cm in length. Not sure on how to deal with this issue right now. Most likely, the only true fix is a new engine block, and even a relatively well done temporary fix requires at least a full engine teardown. Neither of those really fit my timetable right now, the car has been in my buddy's garage long enough as it is. I'm open to suggestions, but I'll be looking into ordering a new 05U block soon so I have one ready for the coming year, or whenever the current block inevitably fails fully. (Most likely once the crack reaches one of the frost plugs) I think it'd be a waste of money and time to rebuild the engine with this block. Oh and I found a rust hole on the side pocket of the trunk, which someone covered up with sealant goop, a piece of number plate and bodywork filler. Fun times. So far for every issue we fix we just find a new one that is arguably worse.
    • I have not found this no. I put one back on a couple days ago with no drama. I agree they are tight, but no need to remove anything. 
    • That is gates blue racing belt
    • Anyone found gates blue racing to be extremely tight/ almost impossible to install without moving the exhaust gear
    • Hello am apex am new here and also thanks for helping registering the forum 
×
×
  • Create New...