Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As topic states... no bullshit. Swaps maybe for something of interest

- 1989 HCR32 4 door

- Genuine 112,000kms

- New belts and service

- New driver's side window switch

- New bonnet release cable

- New centre vent

- No oil leaks

6months Rego

**************There is a slight scratch/dent on drivers rear door thanks to a truck merging into the car on the F3 (zoom pic c)**************

All inspections are welcomed

ENGINE:

* - pod filter

* - Kakimoto catback

* - Aftermarket dump

* - Type RS BOV

* - Front mount

* - Exedy clutch

* - 52mm Radiator

* - Silicon Rad hoses

* - Currently running 11psi

SUSPENSION/BRAKES

* - HSD Coilovers (less than 1000km old)

* - Nismo rear strut brace

* - Some bushes upgraded to nolathane

* - Slotted rotors F+R

* - Intima SS Pads F+R

* - Dot 4 brake fluid

* - LSD

* - KKR Adjustable Pillow ball Tie Rod Ends

* - KKR Rear Traction Rods

* - KKR Rear Camber Arms

* - KKR Lock Collars (solid sub frame bushes)

* - KKR Rear Toe Arms

* - KKR Adjustable Front Camber Arms

* - Varrstoen 18 x 9.5” +12 all round (almost new)

* - 225/40 Falkens 595 in front (almost new)

* - 235/40 cheapies on rear (almost new)

INTERIOR

* - Apexi Boost Gauge

* - Apexi A/F Gauge

* - Apexi Fuel Pressure Gauge

* - Apexi turbo timer

* - Blue Carpet

* - Blue gear boot and handbrake boot in leather

* - Short shifter

* - Sony Headunit

* - 6 ½ in Soundstream Tarantulas in doors

* - 6 ½ in Soundstream Tarantulas in rear

* - Custom Rear Parcel Shelf

* - 2x Amps

* - 2x 12in Pioneer Subs in box

EXTERIOR

* - Dark Metallic Blue

* - Aero Mirrors (electronic)

* - GTR Bonnet (genuine)

* - 25mm Vented Front Guards

* - Crystal indicators

* - GTR copy front bar

* - vertex style rear bar

* - vertex style side skirts

* - Rear wiper removed and plugged with custom made alloy plugs

* - boot de-badged and shaved and spoilers holes filed (Welded)

* - Rolled Guards

* - 6000K HID Low beams

After $9,500

Car is located NSW Sydney Region

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388726-phat-r32-4-door/
Share on other sites

Looks nice mate these days 32gtrs are getting around for not much more. Not saying its not worth ur asking price but dont think it will sell in a day or so

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388726-phat-r32-4-door/#findComment-6196502
Share on other sites

nah no real issues what so ever. looks low thanks to the vertex kit but quite a bit of clearance underneath. aircon was removed by previous owner. forgot to add that tho internal controls etc still all remain as do pipes out from the firewall

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/388726-phat-r32-4-door/#findComment-6200593
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
    • Any idea where I can get genuine MAF apart from used ones? I can't find any only for GTRs and unfortunately that price is not in my budget 🤣 I might gap my plugs down and put my splitfires in, they were only in for a year or so before I started the rebuild 
×
×
  • Create New...