Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

hopefully somebody might be able to help me out here, over the last couple of track days my rb25 180 has felt slightly underpowered on some laps but then others felt ok. so looking under the bonnet i can here the solenoid for the vct cam on the side of the block, with the plug and two wires coming off of it, clicking on and off (presumably) even while the car is idling.

Would this be causing some of the issues with lack of power, i.e not switching the cam properly and would it be a simple fix of replacing the solenoid or is it something alot more involved than that like wiring or the actually cam

If someone has some leads or ideas that i could try that would be heaps appreciated

Cheers

Nick

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/389025-clickong-noise-from-vct-solenoid/
Share on other sites

unplug it and see if your power stays consistent. it normally turns on just off idle then off at ~4500rpm but if its somehow randomly switching at higher revs it could be robbing you of some power

One of several things could be faulty. 1) the solenoid itself is bung. 2) the ECU is bung. 3) the wiring between them, or the power to the solenoid, is bung.

Given that it should not be engaged at idle (ie while you stand there with the bonnet up), I'd be leaning toward the ECU being bung, which is not a good thing.

well basing it on its definately alot doughy-er in low revs (not 100% on actual revs as i don't have a tacho) but more worried with the pretty much consistant ticking of the solenoid, which has lead me to believe that it is an issue with the VCT.

I've done a compression test (approx 158-9 across all six) all clamps and silicon joiners have been checked, air flow meter checked for cracks and leaks (its located in the cool side of the cooler pre throttle) and spark plugs were only done recently

Cheers for any help though

Edited by NICKCEFFY

While its clicking check that the power is constant at the solenoid.

Use a test light connected to the positive terminal and check if the negative is flickering on and off causing the solenoid to switch on and off.

If the negative is flickering at the plug check at the ecu plug to see if its a wiring fault.

Then if its still an intermittant signal it may be something like neutral switch etc playing up. Need to check all before replacing ecu

Nah haven't been able to try it due to it being track only and the driveway isn't quite long enough, lol! the first time it started happening we thought it was fuel issues, but have since rebuilt the fuel system and then the second time was the last event of the year and spent most f the time diagnosing every thing else but only just sort of connect the dots when we heard the clicking. it was most likely happening all the time but during the competition it wasn't some thing we were looking for so didn;t really take note of it

  • 9 months later...

Old thread i know but im having the exact same issue with my freshly rebuilt rb25det. Seems to be only while idling I can hear and feel the VCT solenoid clicking every few seconds causing it to hunt all over the place and eventually stall.

When i unplug the VCT solenoid connector it idles smoothly, no hunting or stalling.

I cant be 100% sure but it felt like there was a little more grunt in the bottom end with the VCT connector on = VCT works? (I have to baby it around)

Running a vipec v44 plug in ECU, was wondering if having no battery connected for a few months would cause the ECU to reset?

Anyway, I'll try those things tomorrow.

I'm fairly sure all that's between the ecu and the solenoid is the main 12v circuit and a control wire direct from the ecu. That being said I doubt there is an actual problem with the wiring or the solenoid itself. Most likely a calibration issue as mentioned.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Just trying to get my head around this. At 5psi of boost, you turn on your wmi pump, and then you're using a 3000cc injector, to allow flow upto the actual engine, where you have your 6x200cc injectors and a 500cc injector. If the above is correct, what advantage are you obtaining by having the 3000cc injector blocking flow, is this just incase a line breaks between that injector and the motor you can stop flow immediately? Or are the 6x200cc and 500cc less injectors and just spray nozzle?
    • Welcome! New member myself, but I had an R33 back in 2002. Best advice I could give, based on my experience: if you're running the factory turbo, be very conservative with boost. I made the mistake of just fiddling around with the boost controller and cranking the boost for fun, and the end result was my intake pipes popping off frequently from the constant deluge of oil that was being blown into the recirc by the stressed-out turbo, which itself was siphoning oil from the engine and farting it out both sides of its centre bearing (or something to that effect). If I could do it all again, I would have gotten a new turbo and had a tune dialled in professionally and then just left it alone! Funny you mention the metal shavings in the gearbox, as I had the same thing - the probe plug (magnetic drain plug, essentially) would come out caked with shavings. At least it was doing its job. Not sure if that's just sacrificial wear and part of the deal, or if my gearbox was shagged, but I wasn't abusing it. Enjoy the R33 - they're a dying breed, and if they weren't $35k+ on CarSales in Queensland, I might have picked up one of those again, instead of the 370GT I own now (though I'm loving the 370GT, that big 3.7L V6 just hits different).
    • Howdy folks. I owned an R33 back in 2002, which was thoroughly beyond my capacity (financially speaking) to maintain/insure, so we parted ways in 2004. Fast forward 21 years (to literally yesterday, in fact) and I'm now the proud owner of a 2007 V36 370GT. I'm happily surprised by how much power the VQ37VHR makes, compared to the RB25DET, considering the latter is turbocharged. I had planned to add a turbo at some point but I'm on the fence about whether I'll even need it (though I do love the sudden onset of extra torque). Any other 370GT owners around the traps, I'd love to hear about your experiences with this car (good and bad).
    • Perhaps the answer is... more jacks!* *proper jacks must be used.  
    • I NEVER think about using a scissor jack unless there is absolutely no other alternative. f**king things are dangerous, annoying and stupid.
×
×
  • Create New...