Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

The aftermarket one also available is "powermax" comes in a green box.. can get from Supercheap.. Around $70

I think the N1 could be overkill on a street car.. Apparently people do notice some cooler temps, but I've never had overheating problems. Maybe on a track car coul be worthwhile, but otherwise..

  • 1 year later...
  • 2 years later...
  • 1 year later...

yeh you have to modify the n1 pump, an rb30 one will work fine.;

also read when i was doing it, that the n1 pump, with its larger spacing and one less blade, is not suited for traffic situations, great on the open stretch or track, but idling away it doesnt flow as much... as its designed for higher than stock rpm, hence the larger space and one less blade.

  • 2 weeks later...
Yeah I'd like to know this as well - my RB25 water pump is leaking so looking at a possible replacement.

The RB25 water pump has an elongated hole for the small bolt on the top side of the pump, the other RB pumps don't have the elongated hole. The location of the small bolt hole in the RB25 blocks is different to the RB20 and Rb30 and consequently if you use an RB20 or RB30 water pump you won't be able to install the small bolt. All the other bolts however, align correctly.

I have found in the past that Nissan is cheaper to buy an RB25 water pump than Autobahn.

  • 4 weeks later...

my water pump has f$%^&d itself last night. rang autobarn and they said they all the same. rang supercheap and in 3 diff books he was looking through he had 3 diff answers.

what the hell is goin on with this shit???

trust me after a massive headache of doing the water pump at home (3 times)... u you all know timing belt/harmonic balancer has to come off?

just go to nissan, buy the RIGHT pump for ur car and have less headaches!

Edited by DjeMz
  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
    • My bad, I unplugged the one underlined in red instead of yellow before. With the car started, after unplugging the IACV (the one underlined in yellow), it idled at around 400/500 for 3 seconds before stalling. Attempting to start the car without the IACV will not start the car.   It does stutter and sputter for around 5 seconds before dying. However, immediately after starting it, you can already hear some slight sputters from the exhaust.   It won't start with the AFM unplugged. If it is when the car has already started, it stalls in a few seconds.   Yesterday, I did take some logs using Nistune of 3 scenarios. Car idling till it stalls Car idling and unplugging the IACV Car idling and removing the AFM I also have some previous logs of when the Car is idling till it stalls and when driving and it cuts. I am not really knowledgeable enough to understand what to look for. After every test, car idles rougher and rougher, until I have to stop. It will be fine the day after.
    • There is no difference between a 17x8 and an 18x8. The total diameter of the tyre needs to remain +/- the same (so you don't mess up the gearing, speedo reading, and clearance when turning front wheels..... so you just need to use a lower profile tyre on th 18 than you do on the 17. /rocket surgery.
    • I thought the same to start with. But then I thought it was one of those LCAs where the end of the ARB goes through a bushing in the LCA itself, instead of having an end link.
×
×
  • Create New...