Jump to content
SAU Community

Need A Good Fault Finder In Adelaide.

buzz350

By buzz350,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

buzz350 Collaborator

buzz350

Posted
Posted

Hey all, as everyone probably knows/has read about, the missfire problem skylines have high up in the rpm range.

Ive had it for too long now and its driving me nuts!!!

Ive got a S1 R33 gts-t 1993 model.

Mods are a fmic of unknown dimensions but quite large, 3 inch stainless steel dump and exhaust (xforce). (227, XXX thousand kms on the clock, all original, has a lifter knocking but i dont think this would cause the misfire as it goes after the car is warmed up for a min)

What ive done sofar to rectify the problem;

Changed coilpacks over with other r33 oem ones, checked them at night to see if they were arcing out on the block/rocker covers .... nothing so im assuming it cant be them???? Even checked resistance and they all were the same.

Cleaned up connector points on the afm (original afm) .... still no luck there.

Changed fuel filter, again nothing.

Havent done anything with the ecu, but im thinking if i get a z32 ecu with nistune will this solve the issue?

Havent touched my O2 seonsor either.

Fuel pump is still original.

Any help is appreciated, or even better yet, if u can lead me to a place where they can help me (fault find) down south in adelaide would be great!

Thanks to all and any information given, if it works i shall worship you :worship:

Cheers Aaron

kitto Mentor

kitto

Posted
Posted

Have you changed your plugs?

What plugs are in it? What gap?

Were the coil packs you put in BRAND new OEM units, or just some other second hand ones?

Could be ignitor or CAS, but look at plugs first if you havn't changed them, and coil packs if they are just second hand ones.

buzz350 Collaborator

buzz350

Posted
  • Author
Posted

plugs are platnum, gapped at 0.8 are 10 thousand old at most.

2nd hand oem units. might look at some yellow jackets.

would a good fault finder tell me if its the cas or igniter or is it all trial and error half the time?

Bsa Mentor

Bsa

Posted
Posted

Change the plugs just get normal plugs. The cas may be the most likly your problem I remember helping a mate fix a 33 skyline same problem the cas bracket was cracked was enough to put timing out at revs replaced that and it was fine. But yes a new set of coil packs won't hurt. Get your timing checked

scotty nm35 Grand Master

scotty nm35

Posted
Posted

plugs are platnum, gapped at 0.8 are 10 thousand old at most.

2nd hand oem units. might look at some yellow jackets.

would a good fault finder tell me if its the cas or igniter or is it all trial and error half the time?

My last set of platinums lasted less than 10,000, when I pulled them they were 2.5mm gap.

Just put a set of coppers in there, I wish I could.

buzz350 Collaborator

buzz350

Posted
  • Author
Posted

My last set of platinums lasted less than 10,000, when I pulled them they were 2.5mm gap.

Just put a set of coppers in there, I wish I could.

ill get my mechanic to check it over this weekend when i pop around there, hes serviced it many times and hasnt had any problems with plugs with it before.....

have you got increased boost psi? ergo above ~10psi = rich and retard on stock ecu. Change it to normal boost and see if the problems still there.

standard boost, standard actuator, pretty well standard everything.

Silly Q as im a bot of a noob but where is the cas and o2 seonsor on the 33?

buzz350 Collaborator

buzz350

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok ill also talk to my mechanic about these issues and see what he can do for me.

thanks again for all your help guys.

hopefully the problem is fixed soon! will report back with my results :thumbsup:

buzz350 Collaborator

buzz350

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ok was the coilpacks, glad i picked up the splitfire coils for cheap when i saw them, made a massive difference!

thanks for all the help/advice/knowledge guys! was really appreciated!:thanks::cheers:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Welp, good to know. Will have to wait awhile until steady hands with drills and taps are available. In other news, these just arrived! I will weigh them for posterity.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      100% the factory sender is tapered, that is how it seals (well, that and teflon paste or tape)
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Thanks folks - I've saved a few links and I'll have to think of potential cable/adapters/buying fittings. First step will be seeing if I can turn the curren abortion of a port into something usable, then get all BSPT'y on it. I did attempt to look at the OEM sender male end to see if it IS tapered because as mentioned you should be able to tell by looking at it... well, I don't know if I can. If I had to guess it looks like *maybe* 0.25 of a mm skinnier at the bottom of the thread compared to where the thread starts. So if it is tapered it's pretty slight - Or all the examples of BSPT vs BSPP are exaggerated for effect in their taper size.
    • Duncan
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Duncan · Posted

      Have a look at that (shitty) pic I posted. You can see AN -4 braided line coming to a -4 to 1/8 BSPT adapter, into a 1/8 BSPT T piece. The Haltech pressure sender is screwed into the long arm of the sender and factory sender (pre your pic) into the T side. You can also see the cable tie holding the whole contraption in place. Is it better than mounting the sender direct to your engine fitting......yes because it removes that vibration as the engine revs out 50 times every lap and that factory sender is pretty big. Is it necessary for you......well I've got no idea, I just don't like something important failing twice so over-engineer it to the moon!
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
×
×
  • Create New...