Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay so I'm posting this in here cause it's really all I look at on here, hoPe it's okay.?

Now it's time to take the garage ornament to the track for the first time in a long time (workshop drama's and life/ kids always slows things down) anyhow just wondering what everyones opinion is, sorta to do list prior to taking It down to Wakefield.

Status is;

Car has not been driven for about 7 months.( last time was run in on dyno and then tuned on e85).

• e85 still in tank and I know about it's water absorbtion quality so should I dump what's still in there prior to cranking her over?

• I will do compression test more to record as benchmark than anything else but would a leakdown be mOre beneficial?? Was tossing up making a leak down tester if it's worth it.

•brake lines are original ( read old) 1993 items is this foolhardy for a track only car??

• is speed of the streets the correct forum for a shakedown of a newly (relatively) screwed together car and equally rusty driver?

• btw ist a 32 with 25 track only

Any advice greatly appreciated

Also sorry bout User name, it was a looong time ago.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391110-finally-its-trackday-time/
Share on other sites

Just give her a good service. Dump the fuel and get some ULP in there to wash through all the lines. I would drop the tank and clean it out. Put 10L of ulp in there, diconnect the igniter and crank that bad boy and get some fuel flushed through the pumps and lines. You could always blow compressed air through the lines...perhaps people with experience with old E85 in the tank can tell you just how critical it is. But suspect as long as you give it all a good fluch with ULP then dump it as well.

From there, just a good service, Check gearbox fluids, PS fluid, brkae and clutch fluid. AFM is clean., new plugs etc. A wheel alignment and check the brake calipers have not seized. Nothing major, just things to check

Tanks for the reply Roy, I thought your reply would have been less dump the fuel and more dump the 25 for a 20.

Ontopic though sounds like the old e85 is an issue though, shouldn't I flush the lines with new e85 instead of ulp? Also brake fluid tranny and diff fluid was all changed at time of tune/run in . Also was going to do general service A's it still has run in mineral oil in it, roughly how long should I run it on mineral before switching to synth have heard conflicting theorise?

Cheers

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok i will get those 310mm. I found one but on a different site. This is the description on those...is it ok? Technical parameters: - Axle: front. - Disc type: ventilated. - Number of holes: 5. - Disc diameter: 310mm. - Total height with center: 54mm. - Thickness (new/min.): 30/28mm. - Designed for brake calipers manufacturer: Sumitomo.
    • You Gregged a whole racetrack!?
    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
×
×
  • Create New...