Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My clutch bites right at the bottom...

I know I can adjust the pushrod that goes from the pedal to the master cylinder but I don't know which way to turn it to adjust it so that it bites in the middle.

Rather than using trial & error, I though I'd ask on here first :)

Cheers,

Dave

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391264-clutch-adjustment/
Share on other sites

You would turn it the direction that affords the clutch pedal more travel...likely counter-clockwise as this should push the pedal further back towards the driver seat.

However, if your clutch pedal is not sunken, the issue may not be the pedal itself...you might actually have air in the system or faulty/leaking master/slave cylinders, causing the the clutch to engage/disengage later on in the pedal's travel. Check the action of the slave cylinder on the clutch fork while someone pumps the pedal...

Thanks for that... slave was replaced when the clutch died and have also used my vacuum pump to pull new fluid through.

You can pump the pedal but that makes no difference so I am pretty sure there is no air in there.

Gonna go try it once the rain lets up.

Farkin...does it have a reverse thread or have I just visualized the setup incorrectly? And which way were you facing when you turned it lol...

Turning it towards the passenger door I take it?

I was underneath with my head jammed in the pedals lol

Looking at it from that position ie on my back looking at the firewall I had to turn it clockwise, turning it towards the drivers door.

Seems all good now, I have to go on a trip at lunchtime to Mernda to drop off a laptop so I'll see how she goes.

Cheers,

Dave

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, this shouldn't be such a mission, but there were a few tricks so I thought I'd post up a DIY for it. This was on a Q50 Red Sport but I doubt any other V37 model is very different (maybe just less steps for the intake heat exchanger hoses) I pulled the radiator out to flush it because the car was running hot at the track, but obviously the same steps apply for changing a radiator for any reason including an upgrade. If you are removing the radiator, you of course need to drain and refill, so have 5+ litres of blue coolant ready. You don't need to drain the intake heat exchanger to remove the radiator but depending on your plans you may need a couple of litres for that as well. You will also need something to deal with the auto transmission lines, I used 2x 8mm rubber caps on the radiator side, and a short length of 8mm pipe on the car side.....unless you can block these lines quickly you will loose AT fluid and it may be enough to hurt the transmission if you don't refill it. Other than that....lets go... "First, jack up your car". Yes really, and put it safely on stands. If you are not confident doing that you need to give this job to a mechanic
    • If the forester is anything like our old 2007 GTB Liberty, I could near on run ling Long's and "rate them", as no matter what, it just hung to the road, even when abusing it in a hard launch in the wet, or throwing it at corners.
    • LOL, all of the CAI like Craig I just need to put a hole saw through my bumper Done and dusted, the car runs, which is nice, I'll take it for a spin when the weather clears up Just need to put the bumper back on for good
    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
×
×
  • Create New...