Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 Gtst-4 Front Axle(?) Removal

s213b

By s213b,
in General Maintenance

 Share

Recommended Posts

s213b Rising Star

s213b

Posted
Posted

Hi,

I'm 3/4 of the way through the removal of my rb20 from my 89 r32 gtst4, have gearbox out (rb20 awd box's same as r32 gtr box's??) and have gotten up to removing the front hub/axle (front right wheel off, I need to get the big central hub but off) but have hit a few snags.

1) does anyone know what size that nut is? Is it 36mm? (my sockets go up to 19.... Great

2) gear box is out, brake booster disconnected etc, can't stop the wheel rotating when I try to undo the big nut with an adj spanner + huge flat blade between wheel studs.

The nut seems to be corroded on and f*cking tight, help?

I'm now driving an extremely troubled Daihatsu charade so this is pretty urgent. :D

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/391512-r32-gtst-4-front-axle-removal/
Share on other sites
s213b Rising Star

s213b

Posted
  • Author
Posted

I think it might be 27...

I was using a socket (imperial... Haha) and a penetrant and a 3 foot breaker bar and it was bending the jack pole in between the wheel studs (had it there to stop wheel spinning)

I'll have a go with a metric socket today ;)

bigjiz Collaborator

bigjiz

Posted
Posted

If ur trying to get the drive shaft out u dont need to take hub off u undo the tierod end, the two nuts under the hub (thinks its the lower control arm) and the carster r od just the two bolts u dont have to the front bolts and get a plie bar and pop the caster rod off and u should be able to lift the hub up and the drive shaft Will just come out with it

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • Duncan
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By Duncan · Posted

      You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • V35Newbie
      After market rear camber arm adjustment

      By V35Newbie · Posted

      I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...