Jump to content
SAU Community

1/4 Mile times and/or RWKW with Automatic R33 GTS25t

strutto

By strutto,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

the dual stage in the r33 is 7psi after 4500rpm, same rpm level when vvt timing turns off.

this is controlled by the ecu and it grounds wire # 25 on the ecu pin out when u go above 4500 rpm which opens the valve to run 7psi.

i believe (again believe) this is regardless of auto / manual

you could if you wanted to break this ground and permentatly ground the wire yourself to somewhere in the engine bay, that way the valve is always open and you run 7psi all the time, regardless of rpm. im not sure on other implactions from doing this, but it should be fine.

  • Replies 47
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Fly_With_Sky Rising Star

Fly_With_Sky

Posted
Posted

ok thnaks guys, oh this aint for my car by the way paulr33, i just heard today that a friend of mine said that this guys auto Line only runs 5 psi and i thought that theres something wrong wif his car as i thought they all run 7 as well. so looks like i was thinking right, anyway thanks again.

paulr33 Grand Master

paulr33

Posted
Posted

i dont think there is a massive differnece between auto and manual when you are comparing dyno output. they should be the same or similar as they will both have similar torque in 4th gear or high in the auto. its mainly 0 to 100 and 1/4 where you will see the auto be a bit behind due to lower rpm shifting and different cogs / ratios (i think)

strutto: i have no idea. i guess in limp home mode (afm broken) it wouldn't ground it, not sure what other events it would consider before not ground it. i've permenantly grounded mine and it runs 7psi non stop, works fine so far. has been for week and a half now. it looks like now (since runnning 7psi all the time) im getting better fuel economy as stupid and random as it sounds, no idea how or why, just seems like that. could be a big concidence (most likely)

  • 2 years later...
SoFreshSoClean Proficient

SoFreshSoClean

Posted
Posted

My S2 R33 auto did a 15.0 according to my mates G-meter thingy. Thats with full running gear including sub in the boot, plus I forgot to turn the aircon off :P

The only mod I have is a pod filter!

BezerkR32 Veteran

BezerkR32

Posted
Posted

Not sure why you are being told to change pump and reg? Upgrade pump and leave the reg.

i spose it on the limit havnt had any problems yet but my tuner told me the next thing would be to peplace fuel pump and fit a preasure reg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...