Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

R32 Four Door For Sale

The Car:

1990 Nissan R32 GTS – Complianced

RB20DET

5 speed Manual

Air-Con / Heater Removed

Interior Stripped

Sound Deadening Removed

Battery Relocated to Boot

Engine mods:

Stock RB20DET - Possible bottom end bearing gone?

Garrett GT3071R – internally gated

GReddy oil cooler with braided lines

GReddy return flow intercooler

Siemens 750cc Injectors

Aluminium intake

Drift oil catch can

Spitfire coil packs

True 3" Stainless steel turbo back exhaust straight through with exhaust technology twin flutes

ASI Twin Core Aluminium Radiator

Walbro Fuel Pump

Exedy 5 Puck Clutch

Electronic:

Microtec LT10S Engine Management System – In Built 3 Bar Map Sensor including hand controller

Main isolator and missile switches

Apexi Turbo Timer

Thermo Radiator Fan

Auto Meter Boost Gauge

Suspension:

5 stud conversion - R32

R32 GTST Brakes + Brake booster

R32 NA/Auto Diff – Welded (4:36 Ratio)

Steering spacers

Apexi Castor Arms

R33 Lower Control Arms

Zeal Function Coilover's

R32 GTR rear sway bar

Exterior:

Type M Skirts and bibs

Dark tint all around

Quick release front bar

Passenger side vented headlight

Carbon fibre bonnet with aero catch bonnet pins (flush type)

Tow Hook

Rota Grid-R wheels – (F) 17x9 +12 ® 18x10 +15 with new tyres all round, nice stretch ;)

Interior:

Fully stripped and painted in etch primer

GTST steering wheel

5 Point drivers side harness

Blaze gear knob

Sparco Evo 2 – Pair

Fire Extinguisher

Custom built weld in 4-point roll cage, with additional bracing

A bit about the car:

I've owned it for a year now, done everything to the car myself. . . the car isnt rego'd and would take a bit to get it back to roadworthy condition. It was basically my drift/circuit car. I believe the bottom end bearing has gone on it from what ive been told. . . everything else on it is fine, turbo was brought pretty much new and all the other mods have been brought new in the last year of owning it!!

Asking $8,500 Firm!

Please call or sms me for more details. . .

Anthony

0411 117 167

For Pics Please Click Link Below;

http://s75.photobuck...B-S2K/Tha%2032/

post-49403-0-23796100-1329452017_thumb.jpg

Edited by I8EE
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392065-sweet-32-four-door/
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...