Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Okay about six months ago before I used the wrong fuel and detonated my engine I was making 223rwkws (the engine had just been rebuilt, don’t just 8000ks). Since then the engine has been repaired again replacing two pistons and all the rings. After running it in I changed the oil and headed down to Race Pace with Mobil 8000 in the car. After Ben made the necessary adjustments the car put out just 203rwkws. Ben played around for quite some time and couldn’t get the car to match its previous 223rwkw run. The 20rwkw loss is unexplainable since nothing in the car has really changed.

The performance loss is not really the issue though. For some reason the engine was pinging on the dyno, Ben fixed this but whenever I boot it now the “Check” light goes off flashing. Basically the car is still ever so slightly pinging :mad: Any ideas on why the car might be making less power and why a well turned engine with good fuel oil and so on would be pinging?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39240-powerloss-pinging/
Share on other sites

well, there are alot of different things that can cause detonation and powerloss.

BOV leaking or leak in one of the intercooler pipes and vacuum lines is the first place I would be looking.

Then you could check the injectors are flowing ok, if you have an adjustable fuel pressure reg, is the pressure the right - its easy for someone to accidentally fark with shit when its sitting on a work bench.

A couple of places that may be worth looking at anyways - alot of stuff can happen to an engine when it is pulled apart.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39240-powerloss-pinging/#findComment-797378
Share on other sites

Thanx for the time guys, took it to Ben today and he fixed it ... think it was mostly a dodgy knock sensor. Anyway, the car runs better and safer now. Cant really tell you what he did, just used some of that magic of his!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/39240-powerloss-pinging/#findComment-798350
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A bit late but A disk S13P fit over stock R32 GTR brakes, usually A disk front, O disk rear works.
    • Or, the height of the release bearing is not correct for your combo. Start with the bleeding and checking the slave moves throughout its range when you press the pedal (2 person required), but it is possible for the height to be internally wrong too (box back off to measure.
    • Yes, there's quite a few things that can go wrong during a clutch install. Very unlikely. I have a similar clutch. They (ACS) make good gear. No, it is not normal. It is possible that you just need to bleed the clutch slave. But the new clutch will also have a more aggressive actuation force/pressure, and so your old slave cylinder might be a bit leaky or otherwise compromised, and not up to the extra force required. Or the master cylinder, same.
    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
×
×
  • Create New...