Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 54
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

since the last time I was up here I broke a valve. A single exhaust valve on cylinder #6. I had to purchase a used head to swap out the broken valve.... After taking them all apart I found a lifter that when compressed would not pop back out so I replaced. Hoping that all was well I put everything back together after and what do I hear...the same noise. Now I think it is coming from the bottom end....

So whats next???

If your rod is knocking, that could mean that the piston won't be moving perfectly up and down the cylinder bore. Maybe get a worm camera and feed it through the spark plug hole and have a look around the bores see if they still look fine. Ive heard rod knock, its not a nice sound. This doesn't sound as brutal as rod knock, but at the same time abit harsh for lifter noise.

I had the cylinder head off and had to replace the piston in cylinder #1. In the process I checked out the cylinder in #6 and didnt find any wear on the cylinder walls....So I suspected that everything was square and that the problem was that stuck lifter...Guess I was wrong?

what about loose ring or overbored to much? Like I said the sound comes on after the engine is warm. Assuming it the metals heating up maybe...

Edited by meet07

Disconnect the coilpack on the suspect cylinder and see if the noise is gone,

So did u remove the head and fit a new valve?

I will disconnect the coil pack again and see if it changes anything. Yes I removed the head to fit a used vavle. I seated the valve and installed and while doing so checked out the cylinder walls. Guess I should have removed that piston/rod assembly to inspect. But I was certain that it was that bad lifter..Guess I was wrong...

Check the valve clearances again now with the new valve in. Use a stethascope or long screw driver and try to find if the noise is in the top end or bottom end

I checked the clearances between the cam and lifters again and there is no way that the thinest feeler gauge (.073mm) is gonna fit in there.....When I used the stethascope last time the noise sounded like it came from both sides on cyliner 6 intake and exhaust....What about the piston touching the oil squirter? Is that a possibility. Ive checked this head,lifters and cams 3 times now with the same results...I dont think the problem is the head anymore. Ive bleed lifters,swapped lifters and the whole nine....

what in the bottom end could result in this....Im considering taking it to a performace shop of choice and forking out the extra doe to get it fixed.

What spark plugs are in it? has the head been machined and the block? heard somthing like this once when someone put long plugs in a wrx, was long enough just too kiss the piston when hot but not enough too bend the plug too cause a miss.

Edited by 51NNA

Im running the BCPR7ES-11 gapped at 1.1 Remember I have the gm truck coil packs that put out a lot of juice so I really dont know if I need to open up the gap more but its whatever. I had the guy at the machine shop that put my block together to come over to my house and take a listen. He said the noise was the lifters and that the bottom end sounds good. He recommended some stuff for noisy lifters that Liqui Moly makes. Bought 2 cans, poured it in and it was a little quiter but still not to my liking. So since this noise has been heard in the same spot (cylinder 6) and no matter how many times Ive bleed the lifters, cleaned and mixed around the noise isnt the lifters. So what else in the valve train would probably make that tapping noise? What about the valve springs....Are the exhaust and intake springs the same? Could the retainer be up side down? Could one or 2 springs have a crack in them that is hard to see with the naked eye....Im ready to fix this and ride!!

yeah brand new lifters if they havnt soaked them in dex or somthing simlar for a few hours before fitting take awhile before they will stop tapping, it happened too me on a hilux, took 4 hours @ idle for it too stop.

Edited by 51NNA

Yeah I have started her up a few times a week and have been tryng to drive it around the neighborhood and down the street about 2 times a week....I think im just gonna take it to the tuner and let that shop tell me whether in good or not..Just spoke with them yesterday at the track. The shop owner has a 9 second Supra that is daily driven.

what abut valve guides?? could that also be an issue? They where not replaced at my 80,000 mile rebuild but the valve stem seals where.

  • 2 weeks later...

Update....I went ahead and called the machine shop that orginally did the 5 angle valve job for me...Didnt want to since I blamed them for my 1st rebuilt engine going to shit. Talked to the head guy at the machine shop Frank and he told me that maybe enough material wasnt taken off the top of the valve causeing the lifter to not be able to bleed down....So I dropped it of earlier this week and hopefully they found a mistake...

stay tuned..

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A 1.5 way is a 2 way. It is just a 2 way with a less aggressive ramp on overrun.
    • The ABS and/or TCS being missing/broken will not cause the engine to misbehave. It just casues CEL to come on and annoy you. The CEL is useless if it is always on, so you have to do the things you have to do to get rid of it, so it can be useful. Being a Stag ECU, then yes, it will not expect TCS to be present. But it will expect ABS to be present and working. You will need to either make the ABS CU talk to the ECU (don't ask me what that will take on an NA R34), and make sure the hardware is working....or, you just need to blank it out in Nistune. Do not persist with the stock ECU. You will just have problems. Gte it Nistuned. Start from there. DO YOU HAVE A BOOST SENSOR? The ECU's boost sensor that it. It is connected to the loom at the rear of the coil cover. Usually rides on the firewall on an R34, but is usually bolted down to a bracket along with all the other crap at the back of the coil cover when a Neo is dropped into another car. If you do not have it, the ECU will shit the bed. So, do you have one?
    • So sadly the fuel pump etc was not it. The pump and filter is new and it is still cutting around 4000 rpm. A read something about ABS/TCS (engine is from stagea and ECU too so no TCS) and i dont know for 100% that my car has ABS. It has ABS "cube" in engine bay but i dont think it works(or at least from my braking experience). Can be something like that?  I will be driving the car next week to Nistune tuner to properly see what is wrong...  
    • the Tomei LSD fluid with lsd kit. frustrated that it was shaking the car to crap and affecting everything else negatively, I pulled the diff last night, and removed the lsd carrier, could not find anything wrong, however it seem to be 100 locked up acceleration, and deacceleration, wondering if they sent me a 2 way not a 1.5??  either way I installed the stock open carrier back in place. test drove everything smooth as butter again. no shake, shutter, random, what felt like clutch slip and grab or drive shaft play, etc. something differently wrong in side the lsd. I might bother taking it apart (if possible) to figure out what's going on inside this carrier, as bought too long ago to return.  only draw back is its back to a one wheel wonder.
×
×
  • Create New...