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Noise After Rebuild...

meet07

By meet07,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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meet07 Enthusiast

meet07

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since the last time I was up here I broke a valve. A single exhaust valve on cylinder #6. I had to purchase a used head to swap out the broken valve.... After taking them all apart I found a lifter that when compressed would not pop back out so I replaced. Hoping that all was well I put everything back together after and what do I hear...the same noise. Now I think it is coming from the bottom end....

So whats next???

meet07 Enthusiast

meet07

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If your rod is knocking, that could mean that the piston won't be moving perfectly up and down the cylinder bore. Maybe get a worm camera and feed it through the spark plug hole and have a look around the bores see if they still look fine. Ive heard rod knock, its not a nice sound. This doesn't sound as brutal as rod knock, but at the same time abit harsh for lifter noise.

I had the cylinder head off and had to replace the piston in cylinder #1. In the process I checked out the cylinder in #6 and didnt find any wear on the cylinder walls....So I suspected that everything was square and that the problem was that stuck lifter...Guess I was wrong?

what about loose ring or overbored to much? Like I said the sound comes on after the engine is warm. Assuming it the metals heating up maybe...

Edited by meet07
meet07 Enthusiast

meet07

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Disconnect the coilpack on the suspect cylinder and see if the noise is gone,

So did u remove the head and fit a new valve?

I will disconnect the coil pack again and see if it changes anything. Yes I removed the head to fit a used vavle. I seated the valve and installed and while doing so checked out the cylinder walls. Guess I should have removed that piston/rod assembly to inspect. But I was certain that it was that bad lifter..Guess I was wrong...

meet07 Enthusiast

meet07

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Check the valve clearances again now with the new valve in. Use a stethascope or long screw driver and try to find if the noise is in the top end or bottom end

I checked the clearances between the cam and lifters again and there is no way that the thinest feeler gauge (.073mm) is gonna fit in there.....When I used the stethascope last time the noise sounded like it came from both sides on cyliner 6 intake and exhaust....What about the piston touching the oil squirter? Is that a possibility. Ive checked this head,lifters and cams 3 times now with the same results...I dont think the problem is the head anymore. Ive bleed lifters,swapped lifters and the whole nine....

what in the bottom end could result in this....Im considering taking it to a performace shop of choice and forking out the extra doe to get it fixed.

51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

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Posted (edited)

What spark plugs are in it? has the head been machined and the block? heard somthing like this once when someone put long plugs in a wrx, was long enough just too kiss the piston when hot but not enough too bend the plug too cause a miss.

Edited by 51NNA
meet07 Enthusiast

meet07

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Im running the BCPR7ES-11 gapped at 1.1 Remember I have the gm truck coil packs that put out a lot of juice so I really dont know if I need to open up the gap more but its whatever. I had the guy at the machine shop that put my block together to come over to my house and take a listen. He said the noise was the lifters and that the bottom end sounds good. He recommended some stuff for noisy lifters that Liqui Moly makes. Bought 2 cans, poured it in and it was a little quiter but still not to my liking. So since this noise has been heard in the same spot (cylinder 6) and no matter how many times Ive bleed the lifters, cleaned and mixed around the noise isnt the lifters. So what else in the valve train would probably make that tapping noise? What about the valve springs....Are the exhaust and intake springs the same? Could the retainer be up side down? Could one or 2 springs have a crack in them that is hard to see with the naked eye....Im ready to fix this and ride!!

51NNA Community Regular

51NNA

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Posted (edited)

yeah brand new lifters if they havnt soaked them in dex or somthing simlar for a few hours before fitting take awhile before they will stop tapping, it happened too me on a hilux, took 4 hours @ idle for it too stop.

Edited by 51NNA
meet07 Enthusiast

meet07

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Yeah I have started her up a few times a week and have been tryng to drive it around the neighborhood and down the street about 2 times a week....I think im just gonna take it to the tuner and let that shop tell me whether in good or not..Just spoke with them yesterday at the track. The shop owner has a 9 second Supra that is daily driven.

what abut valve guides?? could that also be an issue? They where not replaced at my 80,000 mile rebuild but the valve stem seals where.

  • 2 weeks later...
meet07 Enthusiast

meet07

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Update....I went ahead and called the machine shop that orginally did the 5 angle valve job for me...Didnt want to since I blamed them for my 1st rebuilt engine going to shit. Talked to the head guy at the machine shop Frank and he told me that maybe enough material wasnt taken off the top of the valve causeing the lifter to not be able to bleed down....So I dropped it of earlier this week and hopefully they found a mistake...

stay tuned..

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