Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I was just driving home and my check engine light came on. It came on first solid for a few seconds then went away. Few seconds later it came on again, solid then went away. I went to stop the car and the idle was hunting really bad. I tapped the throttle and it stabilized. Then it came back again. Each time I was low in RPM, low speed(probably 2nd or 3rd gear max). Car has a Power FC. Hand controller showed 5 knock(the light was solid, not flashing), injector duty was low and temp was about 74c when I shut it off.

Any ideas what can trigger the light? I guess the only hint is the hunting idle, which it has never done before... Only thing that has changed since this happened were the rear brake pads... Where the hell do I start? The car is low on fuel atm, but no warning light for fuel and I wasn't giving it any. Any way to diagnose if its the TPS or AFM? What else throws up the warning light which could cause the engine to hunt?

The only thing I can think of is throw the standard ECU in there and do the diagnostic, but Ive got a Z32 AFM and Nismo injectors. I can swap out the AFM but I can't swap out the injectors... Will it throw error codes about the injectors?

Edited by SargeRX8
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/392948-check-engine-light-pfc/
Share on other sites

This is solid for about, well I can't time it it just stays on solid for at least 5 seconds.. Flashing CEL means something is maxed, solid means sensor failure. I just tested my tps, it seems solid, I can increment it .01v at a time to 4.06v.

Cool, it won't do it anymore. f**kING SHIT f**kING PIECE OF SHIT.

I was reading on the net the way you diagnose with a power FC is go to the sensor page, anything which triggers the CEL is on that page and either you look for something out of the ordinary or you look for something which is highlighted black which means its at fault, not connected or not working.

I wish there was a list of EVERYTHING that triggers the light to come on solid, then I can check them out one at a time and tick them off.

take a photo of the sensor screen on the pfc whilst its running shit if possible and post it up

I took a photo of it normal, now I'm waiting for that engine light to come on so I can snap a photo of it in that state. Judging from what I have read, if the check engine light comes on, the issue WILL be displayed on the sensor screen on the commander(or at least values which are out of the ordinary).

Edited by SargeRX8

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That still isn't a lot to go on. I don't have a Y50 Fuga Head Unit wiring diagram. I can say that a lot of nissans of that age shared head unit plugs, so if you are in Australia something like this would probably help: https://aerpro.com/app091# You plug that into the car loom, then either plug the head unit ISO into that (if it has ISO), or you buy and ISO adapter harness that you wire in. Bit of stuffing around, but once you have ISO its easy to change things in future.
    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
×
×
  • Create New...