Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hi guys,

just wondering where would be the best place in adelaide to get a wheel alignment done?

i have had a few in the past from the local guys but they dont really specialize in awd

not to fussed on how much it is just want a really good job and someone that can give some good advice

cheers mat

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/393269-wheel-alignment-adelaide/
Share on other sites

i could possibly get one done at work. if u want to book it in. but would probably take it somewhere more a long the lines of tyrepower, wheelworx. as we dont have the specs for the stagea, but i would be able to do the research and organise something i am sure

I use Pedders at ridgehaven. They do great work. They charge $110 for 4 wheel alignment but over the years I have learnt that you get what you pay for. I recently took my M35 to a tyrepower twice and got the worse job I've ever had! Only charged $60 but also chewed out the inside of all 4 tyres by setting it up with a shitload of toe for some unknown reason.

So I went back to Pedders and now all good again. Should have stuck with Pedders from the get go like I usually do but tyrepower are closer for me, never again.

Edited by slippylotion

I use Pedders at ridgehaven. They do great work. They charge $110 for 4 wheel alignment but over the years I have learnt that you get what you pay for. I recently took my M35 to a tyrepower twice and got the worse job I've ever had! Only charged $60 but also chewed out the inside of all 4 tyres by setting it up with a shitload of toe for some unknown reason.

So I went back to Pedders and now all good again. Should have stuck with Pedders from the get go like I usually do but tyrepower are closer for me, never again.

$110? My local wanted $165!!!

Ah well, getting it done by NAS this time, see how we go. Always been happy with Pedders in the past, but costs just added up this time because I wanted them to fit some other stuff.

Should have stuck with Pedders from the get go like I usually do but tyrepower are closer for me, never again.

Good advice. I think when you find somewhere you can trust you should stick with them.

Does anyone know where I can find the factory alignment specs? I'm trying out a new guy & so far seems very particular, but he wants the factory specs as a baseline to modify.

Last alignment was too recent ago (2000km) to tell from tyre wear yet, & I don't really want to ruin a set of treads just for trial & error.

thanks for the help guys love the feedback.

might go down to pedders and give them a go

anyone know if the rears can be adjusted so you dont get inner Tyre wear?

or if you have to get adjustable camber arms?

thanks mat

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Totally equivalent. Stock often goes from the comp cover because that's where the actuator is also installed and the factory needs 2" of hose to make the connection - and it comes as a pre-assembled unit. They totally have a boost reference from somewhere between the turbo and the throttle(s). Oh, jeez. Just do it in M12 then. We don't actually care that much. I would expect any such AN converter fitting to rely on an o-ring or some other seal onto a flat surface under the flange of the hex**, because bolt threads are no intended to provide a pressure seal. unlike..... pipe threads. **which also requires a suitably flat and smooth surface on the turbo's boss to provide the seal.
    • I also used NP   That’s were it’s seems to be the best place to fit it? All schematic shows also that it’s should be referenced from the turbo housing. But idk, I do see high hp cars without any connection or anything to their turbos, so I really don’t know how they connect their things
    • I do have loctite 243 and 246 and a few more models. I could drill it now in place and make new threads for m12 and order an4 - m12 coupling and fit that to the turbo. Run a braided hose to the EBC which I could get a an4 to 1/8npt 
    • So M12 and sealant should be fine?    NPT ” because that’s what I had and what I could get atm. 
    • Wouldn’t touch par if they gave it to me. You need to ask how much power you’re looking to make and then add about 50% to it because that’s what you’ll end up making  The factory box says no more at about 350kw or so, the upgraded synchro boxes won’t handle much over 500kw for long and at that point you’re looking at an auto or dog engagement manual,  once you’ve gone dog engagement you may as well go sequential, they cost a little bit more but it’s worth it  also while you’re at it you should upgrade the transfer case with 10 friction plates 
×
×
  • Create New...